The Fifteenth Annual

ARCHIVED INFORMATION FOR THE 2009 CONFERENCE

- FOR REFERENCE ONLY -

Welcome to the premiere Conference on the clothing and culture of the mid-nineteenth century! Celebrating its FIFTEENTH ANNIVERSARY, the Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference is sponsored by Genteel Arts, and will be held on March 5-8, 2009 in Camp Hill (Harrisburg), PA. The Conference provides an opportunity for historians, researchers, museum personnel, reenactors and other enthusiasts to meet with their counterparts from across the country. Attendees at previous conferences have hailed from 38 states and two countries.

You are invited to join us for a weekend of informative presentations, hands-on workshops and seminars on a variety of topics about the men and women of the Civil War era, what they wore, and how they lived.

The 2009 Conference features a full program of presentations of interest to both ladies and gentlemen. Participants will attend a combination of joint and concurrent sessions. Complete details may be found in the sections Presentations, Speakers and Schedule.

Conference participants may also take part in any of the pre-conference seminars, tours and hands-on workshops. In response to requests from participants traveling from across the country, the workshop schedule has been expanded to Thursday and Friday. Space permitting, these sessions will also be open to members of the general public. Further information may be found in the section on Hands-On Workshops, Tours and Seminars.

Participants and their guests are invited to the Welcome Reception and Birthday Party on Thursday evening. Come meet the speakers and your fellow participants. Mike Mescher will lead us in period games and a slide show of highlights from previous conferences will be shown. Wrappers, dressing gowns and other forms of period lounge wear are welcome but not required. Birthday cake, ice cream and beverages will be provided.

Throughout its history the Conference has been pleased to feature over sixty speakers and instructors who have graciously shared their knowledge with the participants. Many are nationally recognized for their body of knowledge and expertise in their area of interest. Their informed and learned presentations are one of the key elements of the Conference’s success. Participants will be able to meet and chat with current, prior and future speakers at the reception.

As in previous years, one of the outstanding features of the Conference will be the extensive Displays of original garments, undergarments, accessories, jewelry, and artifacts. These displays are made possible by the gracious participation of conference attendees, who are encouraged to bring items from their private collections for viewing by other enthusiasts. The displays change daily and may be photographed.

The conference also includes a juried Marketplace featuring a variety of merchants offering carefully selected and documented merchandise. Admission to the Marketplace is complimentary for conference participants; the general public may attend for a nominal fee. A list of participating merchants will be posted at a later date.

If you enjoy period needlework and crafts and reproducing period accessories, be sure to enter this year’s competition for the best reproduction of a pair of slippers c.1855-1865. See the section on the Competition for complete information.

We encourage family members interested in civilian impressions and activities to join us for the weekend. A reduced registration fee is offered to junior attendees, and guests are invited to join us for either Saturday dinner or for all meals throughout the Conference (additional fee). A reduced registration fee is also offered to full-time college students. Additional information is available in the General Information section.

Make plans now to attend this enriching weekend and meet others who share a dedicated interest in the clothing and culture of the Civil War era. Complete conference details, hotel information and registration forms are listed below. Register early! Previous Conferences have been sold out!

· “I am always amazed with the amount of information that is available at this conference. I may think I’m not interested in a particular topic, but I ALWAYS leave with some information that I can use in my impression and at events.”

· “A good balance of subjects: external appearances as well as the sociology and mindset of the day - Thank you!"

· "This was my first time and I have learned so much. Too bad we can't make this conference mandatory for all reenactors before they go out in public!"

· "The displays of original garments are amazing! The opportunity to view so many of them up close is priceless - worth the price of the conference alone!"

· "Very educational, well organized, great way to network with others and form new friendships."

· “The conference is always an anticipated delight—the knowledge learned from speakers and visual displays is unparalleled. Impossible to always be perfect, but each year is the best offered anywhere.”

· "Very informative - not only with techniques and alternatives, but also the culture and social aspects."

· "This is my first conference (I am a relative 'newbie"). I loved it! So much more professionally managed and presented than I expected."

· "I like the dual-track on Saturday. My wife and I double-teamed - she did one and I did the other."

· “I looked forward to attending the conference with high expectations. The conference far exceeded my anticipations.”

· "Always new knowledge for everyone no matter what level of re-enacting they occupy."

· "The expanded number of workshops with the element of hands-on learning was excellent. It's wonderful to have so many choices."

· "The workshops I've taken over the years have always been so informative and have so much information for my group. FUN!"

· "I love that all of the meals are included. I go to many conferences in connection with my work, and have gone through too much wasted time/frantic search for a quick meal. It also gives us that much more time for networking."

· "VERY professionally run. My employer offers conference management services and we could not have done it better. Any equipment (AV) needs were seamlessly dealt with."

During the past three years, the proceeds from selected pre-conference Workshop/Tours have benefited local institutions. The Conference is pleased to announce we have raised in excess of $2,500.00 for the Adams County Historical Society, $1,000.00 for the archives at the Gettysburg National Military Park, $800.00 for the Shippensburg University Fashion Archives and Museum, and $250.00 for the U.S. Army Heritage and Education Center. Proceeds from select 2009 Workshop/Tours will benefit the Archives at the Gettysburg National Military Park and the Adams County Historical Society. The Conference will continue to support these and similar institutions in the future.

PRESENTATIONS

The Music of Their Hearts: The Influence of Popular Music on Abraham Lincoln and Robert E. Lee

Music historian and widely-recognized recording artist, Douglas Jimerson, will introduce some of the popular songs of the mid-19^th century that were personal favorites of both Abraham Lincoln and Robert E. Lee. In this lecture recital, Mr. Jimerson will draw from several primary sources, including the Lee family songbook. His performance will include a discussion of the commonality of songs that were familiar to both individuals as young men, the historical significance of selections that were their favorites as adults, and the influence popular music had on these leaders.

Phrenology, perhaps the first secular and widely disseminated explanation of how the mind worked, was

first propounded by Viennese physician Franz-Joseph Gall and his protégé Doctor Johann Gaspar Spurzheim just before the turn of the 19th century. By the first few decades of the 1800s it had gained modest popularity in elite circles. From the 1830s through the 1860s and beyond it attracted much popular attention in the United States.
Hailed by some as a science that could tell about individual by measuring the shape of skulls, thus unlocking the secrets of the human brain, it was denounced by others as sheer hucksterism; just the work of opportunistic con-men making money off the gullibility of others. It popularized the new theory of localized brain function (almost universally accepted today), and provided a non-religious language with which to discuss mental matters. Phrenology also ushered in the age of seeking professional advice for personal and professional problems, and thus paved the way for both psychology and career councilors. Without phrenology, there would be no Doctor Phil.

When the settlers came from Europe, they brought with them the tradition of “taking the waters” at the various springs throughout the country. Although many journeyed to these springs strictly for reasons of health, a large number, men and women, went for the social life. We will follow the route of Jane Caroline North, who traveled to the Virginia springs on the traditional route, and left us a journal of that pilgrimage. We’ll look at the history of those springs, the social life, clothing, and recreation. In addition, we’ll see what became of the springs during the Civil War and beyond. We hope to find “the water excellent....our appetites to mend, our slumbers to sweeten, and the stream of life to run cool and peaceably in our veins”.

Mrs. Bloomer was famous as a 19^th century reformer. A feminist who advocated rights for women, she was nonetheless castigated for “de-sexing” the ladies. Her name became associated with an outfit that came to be known as the “Bloomer costume.” Although she refused to take credit for inventing the pants-and-tunic outfit, she wrote articles about the unusual dress, printed illustrations in her periodical, The Lily, and wore the costume herself.

Interest in the new fashion ran high. On a positive note, Bloomer wrote that “letters came pouring in upon me by the hundreds from women all over the country making inquiries about the dress and asking for patterns.” But the outfit was not well received by the general public. It was decried from the pulpit and lambasted in the press on the grounds that those wearing the Bloomer outfit were "impersonating a man". Women dressed in the costume were unceremoniously ejected from halls or churches, and even walking down the street subjected its wearers to harassment. The term “Bloomer girl” became a synonym for radical or extremist. Bloomer herself professed to be “amazed at the furor I had unwittingly caused.”

Despite the controversy, the Bloomer outfit survived as a traveling costume, an exercise outfit and as swimwear, with a resurgent interest in women’s health and fitness. Along with its cousins in the reform dress movement, it remained a symbol of women’s political rights that finally “bloomed” in the next century.

Common sense tells us that the 19^th century was not a black and white world. The flora and fauna have not changed and surviving original clothing shows that fabrics were brightly colored. If we know this, why do people, when looking at 19^th century photographic images, say, “Oh she is dressed in mourning.” Or, “They only wore black, white or gray clothing.”

That is the mystery of 19^th century photography. Due to the photographic process used during the period, colors do not appear as similar tones in a black-and-white photograph. Some light colors photograph as very dark shades, while some darker colors photograph as gray or a lighter color. Even the photographers of the time didn’t always know what to expect; but they did warn their clients what might happen if the client wore a certain color. Magazines of the period often offered advice as to what to wear if one were having their picture taken.

This presentation will explore the surprising variations in color that can occur with period photography. Using actual wet plate photographs as examples, we will compare the results with modern black-and-white and color images. If time allows, colors and color combinations mentioned in period publications will also be discussed.

After seeing this presentation you won’t be able to believe your eyes the next time you view 19^th century photographic images.

Code to Freedom or Con Job? The Use of Quilts in Helping Slaves Escape to Freedom

A 1999 book, Hidden in Plain View, shared a story by a South Carolina African-American quilt-seller, who claimed that quilts were used to give signals to slaves attempting to escape using the Underground Railroad. After appearances on numerous public forums, including Oprah, the authors of Hidden in Plain View and the authors of several children’s books have taken one family’s oral tradition and converted it into an antebellum landscape with quilts dotting every fence and porch rail from Alabama to Canada.

This presentation will explore the facts and myths of “Quilt Codes,” and the million dollar industry that has resulted since the secret codes were finally revealed. Then we will focus on the stories of real fugitive slaves, and those who assisted them, to discover the methods and motivations of those who risked their lives to escape slavery.

Since the beginning of time, hair combs have been used in personal grooming and as a form of personal adornment. Yet they are one of the most overlooked accessories in the modern female living historian’s toilet. The popularity of manufactured decorative hair combs reached its zenith during 19^th century. Manufacturers produced combs from various materials and in a wide range of styles and shapes to compliment the popular hair styles of the period.

This heavily illustrated presentation will examine the manufacturing process of 19^th century hair combs and the types of materials that were used in comb production. We will also discuss how to identify combs made from the different materials and how to date ornamental combs of the 19^th century. What is Civil War era and what isn’t? How were combs worn throughout the century? The presentation will also include how to take care of antique combs, where to find them, and what to look for when buying an antique comb. An extensive display of original combs will accompany the presentation. The speaker will also be available throughout the weekend to help participants date combs they bring to the conference.

Transparent accessories add grace, elegance and delicacy to a garment. They can greatly change the appearance of a dress, taking it from plain to fancy, from simple to refined, from everyday to dressy.

Sheer fabrics from the mid-19th century are glorious: finely woven, light, airy. The have body, a smooth hand, and lovely drape. They were available in a variety of fibers - cotton, silk, linen, wool, pina - and a variety of fabrics - organdy, organza, lawn, batiste, mull, cambric, clear muslin, Swiss dot, net, point d’esprit or lace. From these fabrics, period sewists created a variety of light and airy accessories: caps, headdresses, collars, cuffs, undersleeves, tuckers, chemisettes, fichus, pelerines, canezous, overbodices, shawls, mantles, cloaks.

Profusely illustrated, this presentation will discuss styles, fabrics, construction techniques, and when and where these accessories were worn. Add something new to your reproduction wardrobe this season!

The Pursuit of Secure Economy, Comfort, Neatness and Order: The Household in the 1860s

By the beginning of the 1860s and the start of the Civil War, the forces of the Industrial Revolution had completely transformed the American household. The availability of mass-produced goods and new “domestic” technologies dramatically changed many of the age-old practices of keeping house. Stoves replaced open hearths for heating and cooking. Gas lighting replaced candles and lanterns. Washing machines were changing age-old laundry methods. Interiors were improved with new wallpapers, draperies and carpets.

Join Jim Johnson of The Henry Ford in Dearborn, Michigan as he explores the state of household systems and processes of the 1860s, including lighting, plumbing, heating and cooking and how a typical family may have used them.

More and more men are forsaking their military impressions for civilian roles. Their reasons are varied, and many presume a civilian impression will be ‘easier’. They are greatly surprised to discover that it’s much harder than they expected. They need to know so much more – about who they are, where they lived, what they did, what was going on the world beyond the battlefield. And their wardrobe? It’s not uniform! There is a wide variety in garment styles, shapes, colors, accessories – all worn at different times, in different places, for different activities. Finding accurate information can be challenging; misinformation is everywhere.

Fabrics are particularly challenging. What fibers, weaves, patterns and color combinations are appropriate for the era? Which fabrics were used for this garment? Are they still available? Where can I find them?

This extensively illustrated presentation will address these questions and others as we discuss some of the fabrics used for mid-19^th century menswear. A display of original garments and reproduction fabrics will accompany the presentation. Participants will be able to handle the reproduction fabrics to gain a sense of appropriate weight, hand and drape.

From the beginning of our nation, Americans have fought over the issue of whether to have a strong Federal government controlling certain aspects of our country, or whether states would have that power. Banking and controlling the money supply was part of the battle. The beginning of the 19^th Century saw the establishment and destruction of a National central bank, twice! By the mid-19^th century the increasing power of the states’ banks controlling the money supply showed a better solution was needed. The badly-needed banking laws and regulations would not come about until the Civil War. These laws were improved upon with our current Federal Reserve Banking System.

This presentation will focus on: the rise and fall of the national banks; who supported them and which President strongly opposed them; was banking different in the North than in the South; how was money printed in the state banking era and what did the notes look like; what about coinage and how did it play a role in this confusion of money supply; and what new banking laws were enacted during the Civil War to change the way Americans banked. Civil War currency used by the North and South will be included in a future presentation.

A Placid Beauty Seldom Seen: Rural Architecture, Landscape, and Technologies of the 1860s

At the time of the Civil War, the vast majority of Americans lived on farms, or small towns adjacent to rural areas. Large areas of this rural landscape were dotted with structures, fencing, crop fields, and pastures; and places like Sharpsburg, Maryland, Fredericksburg, Virginia, and Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, bore the brunt of some of the bloodiest fighting of the war. To really grasp the military history of the Civil War, it is equally important to understand the everyday life of the farm families whose buildings, fences, wood lots, and fields determined the tactics and flow of so many important battles. Join Jim Johnson, of the Henry Ford in Dearborn, Michigan and learn about the rural landscape, architectural styles of typical homes, barns and outbuildings, and the farming practices and technologies of the 1860s.

Pre-conference seminars, tours and hands-on workshops will be held Thursday and Friday, March 5-6, 2009. Sessions are three or six hours in length, depending on the topic and location. In some instances, a modest fee payable to the instructor will be charged for supplies and materials for the hands-on workshops.

Priority registration is given to conference participants. Registration will be accepted from the general public after January 31, 2009, space permitting.

In order to accommodate as many participants as possible, especially those arriving later in the day, we ask that you register for the earliest session your schedule permits. Please indicate on the registration form your first, second and third choices for each workshop; please check your registration form for accuracy before submitting.

The Conference reserves the right to cancel a session if there is insufficient registration. Register early, space is limited!

In modern 7th Avenue parlance, a knockoff is a copy of someone else's design. (It's a rather second-rate practice.) However, if you use the same techniques to reproduce authentic 19th century gowns, you'll be an HISTORIAN!

Designer, patternmaker and researcher Martha McCain will unveil the techniques involved in taking a pattern from an original garment. The workshop begins with an illustrated presentation showing the process -step-by-step, from start to finish. The presentation will include techniques used for garments that you can take apart and make a pattern from each piece; museum garments that you can barely touch and will only see once; and garments that can you handle, but don’t want to dismantle or harm in any way.

Using the third technique, participants will then put their new knowledge to use as they make a pattern of a sleeve. Each participant will work with a reproduction half-bodice that is a line-for-line copy of the original garment seen above.

The instructor will provide each student a half-bodice from which they will take a pattern. A kit containing pattern paper, tracing fabric, pencils and push pins will be provided; kit fee TBA. Additional details and a list of supplies will be sent by e-mail as the class draws near, however students should be prepared to bring a ruler, a tape measure, and a magnifying glass. This workshop also uses curved rules and sleeve boards. The instructor will have a limited number of these items available for use during the workshop. Students who own these items should bring them to the workshop. Participants may also purchase them at the workshop with prior arrangement from the instructor.

Thursday or Friday, 9:30-12:30 or 1:30-4:30. Registration Fee: $35.00; Kit fee: TBA. Maximum 12 students. Please enter key word Patternmaking on the registration form.

The handscreen was a very popular accessory of the mid-nineteenth century, yet one which is rarely reproduced today. Using copies of original patterns from the 1850s and 1860s, students will create their own handscreen drawing upon a variety of techniques which can include (but are not limited to) embroidery, appliqué and beadwork. Handcrafted handles and complete instructions will be included in the kits.

Additional details will be sent by e-mail as the course draws closer, but students should be prepared to bring a “stash” of scraps of silk, velvet, fringe, beads, embroidery threads, and other basic sewing supplies. A limited supply of additional handles will be available on first-come, first-served basis, and will cost approximately $25 each. Come and enjoy making one of the more beautiful accessories a woman could possess.

Thursday, 9:30-4:30, lunch break will be provided. Registration Fee: $65.00; Kit fee: $30.00. Maximum 15 students. Please enter key word Handscreen on the registration form.

Back by popular demand – your chance to get up close and personal with a variety of original garments! What secrets do they hold? Participants in this workshop will examine a number of women’s garments from the 1840’s-1860’s in a manner sometimes referred to as “sleuthing at the seams” – looking at materials, trims, construction techniques, repairs, and re-incarnations. Clothing historians look not only at the obvious, but try to go deeper, learning what original garments can tell us about the people who wore them and their material culture.

Pore over patches, delve into darts, hobnob over hems – and afterwards, share notes to gain some insights about original clothing and their original owners!

Supplies needed: Inquiring minds, sharp eyes, and clean hands. Cameras permitted but optional. Survey forms will be provided. Some students may want additional paper for notes or drawings, and rulers and/or tape measures may be useful to the quantitatively inclined. Friday, 9:30AM-12:30PM or 1:30-4:30PM. Registration Fee: $35.00. Maximum 15 students. Please enter key word Originals on the registration form.

You’ve finally found a cartes-de-visite or fashion illustration of the perfect sleeve, but it doesn’t look like any of the commercial patterns that are available. Now what do you do? In this workshop, participants will learn how to take pattern pieces for the four basic sleeve shapes and alter then to create additional styles.

We will begin with a review of the basic sleeve shapes using photos of original garments, cartes-de-visite and illustrations from period magazines. Using scale paper pattern pieces, students will learn how to slash, spread, add to and/or subtract from each of the basic sleeve shapes to create a number of alternate styles. Students will leave the workshop with a portfolio of sample patterns that can be used as a reference for future projects.

General Information: No sewing skills are required. A materials fee of $5.00 per session includes extensively illustrated handouts and instructions and scale patterns. Students will need to bring paper scissors, Scotch™ tape or glue stick and pencils. Thursday, 9:30-12:30 or 1:30-4:30. Registration Fee: $35.00. Maximum 25 students. Please enter key word Sleeves on the registration form.

Simply elegant and elegantly simple! Copied from an original example in a private collection, this cap can accent a simple day dress or an elaborate dinner gown. It is created from a single piece of cotton net, some silk ribbon and a piece of lace edging. While the design looks complicated and will intrigue experienced seamstresses, the actual construction is simple – perfect for those with minimal sewing skills. A kit containing the pattern and all materials will be provided (fee). Students should bring hand-sewing needles, scissors, beeswax and a thimble (optional).

Friday, 9:30AM-12:30 or 1:30-4:30. Registration Fee: $35.00. Maximum 15 students. Please enter key word Cap on the registration form.

(Morning Sessions) Tunisian Crochet for Non-Crocheters – Even if you’ve never held a crochet hook in your hands, you can learn the basics of Tunisian crochet. This session includes an introduction to Tunisian crochet, a discussion of Tunisian crochet during the 1860’s, making a foundation chain stitch, the basic Tunisian crochet stitch, the Wave stitch, increasing and decreasing, and finishing. Maximum 15 students.

(Afternoon Sessions) Tunisian Crochet for Crocheters – For those who can do basic crochet stitches, this is a more advanced class covering the basic Tunisian crochet stitch, the Wave stitch, and other Tunisian crochet stitches, increasing and decreasing, working with two colors, adding embroidery and other embellishments, and finishing. Maximum 25 students.

Supplies: A Tunisian crochet hook, preferably size J or K; one skein of sport weight or DK weight wool for the morning sessions; two skeins of different colored sport weight or DK weight wool for the afternoon sessions; scissors. Hooks and wool will be available for purchase at the workshop. An instruction book with period patterns will be provided.

Thursday or Friday, 9:30AM-12:30PM or 1:30-4:30PM. Registration Fee: $35.00. Please enter key word Crochet on the registration form.

At last! A period craft that doesn’t require sewing. Participants in the workshop will learn how to make bookmarks from perforated paper by cutting creatively to form intricate patterns. We will examine the popularity of this craft and the use of religious symbols to create this unique novelty. Patterns will be based on extant examples and illustrations from period publications, including Godey’s Lady’s Book and Peterson’s Magazine. Finished bookmarks may be attached to a ribbon or framed. Those interested in creating 21^st century scrapbooks will enjoy adapting this technique to give their creations a period look.

This workshop is not recommended for those with arthritis or carpal tunnel syndrome. SUPPLIES: Students will need a pair of Fiskars Micro-Tip Scissors #5, Model #12-9481, available at major craft and hobby stores. Scissors may be purchased from the instructor with prior arrangement. A kit with patterns and perforated paper will be supplied by the instructor (fee).

Friday, 9:30AM-12:30PM or 1:30-4:30PM. Registration Fee: $35.00. Maximum 15 students. Please enter key word Bookmarks on the registration form.

“Perfect Scaffoldings of Hair”: Making Hair Pieces and Incorporating Them into Your Toilet

In 1863, Godey’s Lady’s Book described hair pieces, “Perfect scaffoldings of hair are now built on the head - roll upon roll - puff upon puff.” In this hands-on workshop, participants will learn how to make several types of hair pieces, including buns, braids, waterfalls and rats, and how to incorporate hair pieces into their own hair styles. They will also learn how to purchase hair pieces from vendors to complete their period look and how to take care of their hair pieces for years of use.

A kit will be available from the instructor with inexpensive hair pieces, hair pins and invisible nets to work with during the class. The hair pieces will be random hair colors used for practice only; they are not meant to match the individual participant’s hair color. Participants will be sent a list of additional materials & notions they should bring with them to the class. A handout containing additional information is included in the registration fee. Thursday or Friday, 9:30AM-12:30PM or 1:30-4:30PM. Registration Fee: $35.00; Kit Fee approximately $20.00-$25.00. Maximum 15 students. Please enter key word Hair Pieces on the registration form.

The Artifice of Dressing Well: Selecting Styles that Flatter You and Your Figure

There are dozens of articles in period publications that offer advice on the art of dressing well. Readers are advised to select styles that are appropriate for their age or their role in their community. They are given advice on colors and color combinations. They are admonished to practice conservatism in style and construction.

These articles are interesting to read, but they frequently lack any practical advice. There are no recommendations that point out this bodice style is more flattering for a slender figure and that one is more appropriate for a reader “with excess flesh about the diaphragm”. They may state that orange is “not flattering to any skin tone”, but they don’t mention that rust or copper are attractive, fashionable and appropriate shades. They don’t give detailed instructions on how to create a dress when you are short one yard of that very expensive fabric.

This presentation will focus on the artifice of dressing well – the skillful and artful practice of interpreting these guidelines to recreate mid-19^th century garments that fit and flatter a 21^st century body. Learn which styles are more flattering for certain body shapes; how changing a neckline or sleeve can add or subtract ten pounds; how to select period colors and color combinations that won’t make you look like death warmed over; how to choose fabrics and trimmings that are practical, age-appropriate and pretty; and how to use period construction techniques that can conserve fabric without affecting style. Mid-19^th century women were adept at using these techniques; learn how to include them in your wardrobe.

Friday, 2:30-5:00. Registration Fee: $35.00, includes extensive handout. Unlimited enrollment. Please enter key words Dressing Well on the registration form.

Behind the Scenes: A Tour of the Collections of the Gettysburg National Military Park

This workshop/tour will provide an in-depth tour of the museum and archival collections of the largest Civil War collection in the National Park Service. Come visit the Archives in its location at the recently-opened Visitor’s Center. The tour includes a brief history of the collection, along with how the park catalogs, stores, and preserves its objects. Participants will learn how to gain access and conduct research in National Park Service collections. Of particular interest to conference participants will be the opportunity to see, examine, and comment (provide your own expert knowledge) on some of the civilian-related objects in the Gettysburg collections. Proceeds from this workshop/tour will benefit the GNMP Archives.

Thursday 9:30AM-12:30 or 1:30-4:30. Registration Fee: $35.00. Maximum 20 students. Please enter key word GNMP on the registration form.

Workshop-Tour of the Adams County Historical Society and Its New Civil War Studies Center

Participants in this workshop/tour will learn the ins and outs of researching at this historical institution and by extension similar historical organizations including what is available, how to access the information and holdings, rules for researching in a special collections environment, obtaining permissions for reproduction and publications and more.

A tour will highlight the Society's vast collection of archival material, books, images, and objects related to the 210 year history of Adams County, Pennsylvania. Proceeds from this workshop/tour will benefit the Adams County Historical Society.

Thursday 9:30AM-12:30 or 1:30-4:30. Registration Fee: $35.00. Maximum 20 students. Please enter key word ACHS on the registration form.

Karin Bohleke is currently the director of the Shippensburg University Fashion Archives and Museum, where she supervises a collection of over 14,000 items dating from the late eighteenth century through to the twentieth. Her responsibilities include mounting two major clothing exhibitions and authoring the accompanying catalogs per year, and many have enjoyed her last show Garibaldis, Engageantes and Cages: American Fashions of the Civil War Era 1840-1870. She holds a Ph.D. in French language and literature from Yale University, and also serves as an assistant professor of French at Shippensburg as needed. Karin was formerly an adjunct professor at Hood College in Frederick, MD, where she taught French, Russian, Classical Mythology, and Humanities for the graduate school.

An avid seamstress, embroiderer, tatter and lace-maker since early childhood, Karin augmented her studies of clothing styles by creating reproduction clothing when introduced to vintage ballroom and social dancing by her future husband Briant. Together they collect vintage clothing, fashion magazines in French and English, cased images, cdv’s, cabinet cards, and dance-related paper ephemera. They also teach Civil War and historic social dancing, proctor balls, and lecture and perform.

A Norwegian by birth and an American citizen as of March 2008, Karin now resides in Biglerville, PA, where she continues to pursue her interests in languages, social dance, costume, needle arts, nineteenth-century women's travel accounts, and a new passion for gardening. She is also a member of the Costume Society of America and has presented her research at the Society’s annual symposium. Karin is a volunteer at the Adams County Historical Society and the Gettysburg National Military Park Archives, where she has assisted in the identification and dating of nineteenth-century photographs of women and evaluated the costume collections. She has published for Civil War Historian and The Citizens' Companion and is currently working on a book and several scholarly dress-related articles.

Janet Elton has been interested in mid-19^th century clothing since she began participating in the North-South Skirmish Association Costume Competition in the 1970s. In 1990 she discovered the Genteel Arts Academy; since then she has seriously pursued studying, sewing, collecting and reproducing 1860s clothing. Initially focused on women’s clothing, Janet’s three granddaughters allowed her to showcase girl’s fashions – until they moved to Utah. Her grandson immediately stepped into the void and offered her a challenge to begin studying boys and young men’s fashions.

Janet has won numerous N-SSA costuming awards for the clothing she has made for herself and her grandchildren. Janet’s awards include the Hulshart award for excellence in research and reproduction and the Delany award for sewing excellence; the ensembles she has made for her grandchildren have won the John Elton-Potomac Region award on several occasions.

In addition to her textile pursuits, Janet also collects mid-Victorian jewelry, cartes-de-visite, and has a new-found interest in quilts and quilting.

A native of Maryland, Janet has been a loving wife, caring mother and grandmother, and has spent 43 years in the nursing profession – 38 of those years at St. Agnes Hospital in Baltimore. She will have retired from there by the time you read this.

Colleen Formby has been interested in the material culture of the 18th century for most of her life, and finally came forward into the 19th century when friends of hers were married and decided to have a masquerade ball at the reception. While doing research for the Civil War era ball gown she wanted to wear, she discovered there is a whole world out there that dresses in period clothes every weekend! Although she has always been interested in social history, and the effect the War Between the States had on Southern upper class women, she did not realize that there are so many others who have overlapping interests. She was recently honored to be a consultant for the chapter on Civil War era knitting in Knitting America, a new book on the history of knitting in the United States.
Colleen has graduate degrees in Vocal Performance from Radford University in Virginia, as well as an MLS with a specialty in Archives and Preservation from the University of Maryland. This diverse background has enabled her to speak on topics that range from "Troubadours and Trouveres in 12th Century France" to "Mold and Mycotoxins in Special Collections". She works as a reference librarian in Prince George's County, Maryland, and is the special collections librarian in charge of the Maryland Room for the county.
Colleen became interested in the history of the various springs several years ago when her parents retired to Hot Springs, Arkansas. She “takes the waters” there every year, in a bathhouse that has been in continual operation, with very little change, since 1912.

With a love of history instilled by her parents, Carol Garratano has always had a special interest in historic clothing, fashion and culture.

An avid seamstress and active member of the North-South Skirmish Association Costume Committee, Carol has won numerous awards in costume competition, including the Delaney trophy for sewing excellence. She is currently serving as Judges Coordinator for the Committee.

In 2005 Carol and her husband, Steven, established “Second Mourning”, creating reproduction gutta percha jewelry copied from original pieces. While Steven focuses on product development and production, Carol serves as researcher, administrative assistant and chief nag….er, project manager.

Carol is a lifelong resident of the Jersey Shore and enjoys traveling to Gettysburg as a regular student of the Genteel Arts Academy.

Stacy Hampton has studied Civil War history for over 25 years. She is a member of the Company of Military Historians, the North-South Skirmish Association, and the Victorian Society in America.

For the past 20 years, Stacy has been a Civil War reenactor. She is a Vice President and Membership Chair of the Atlantic Guard Soldiers Aid Society. Over the years, Stacy has helped to organize many civilian events, including many of the 135th anniversary cycle of reenactments.

Stacy is an avid collector of nineteenth century hair combs, cartes-de-visites, stereoviews and stereoviewers. She is currently working on a manual & DVD of mid-nineteenth century hairstyling techniques. Stacy lives on the Eastern Panhandle of West Virginia with her fiancé and their cats.

Susan Lyons Hughes is Interpretation and Education Manager at Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill, Kentucky, where she oversees the interpretation and programming of the restored 19^th century Shaker community. Susan has been a scholar of the Civil War and a reenactor since 1981. The founding editor of The Citizens’ Companion, she also served as associate editor of Civil War Historian Magazine from 2006 to 2008. Her article on Kentucky civilians during the Civil War appeared in the November 2000 issue of North and South Magazine. Other articles have been published in The Kentucky Encyclopedia, The Texas Historical Quarterly, and The Register of the Kentucky Historical Society. Susan is a frequent speaker at conferences, Civil War Round Tables, and other venues. Her research interests include historic architecture, 19^th century mourning customs, paisley shawls, and classic Mustang automobiles.

Douglas Jimerson, an American tenor, musicologist, and historian, began his professional singing career with the Washington Opera. He also has been a featured soloist with the Annapolis Opera, the Summer Opera of Washington, DC and the Washington Performing Arts Society. He gave his debut recital at Carnegie Hall in 1996. Since then, he has been specializing in American bel canto and patriotic literature. Many of his solo recitals have been center stage at the Kennedy Center in Washington, DC. Last season, he sang the National Anthem for Major League Baseball games in Washington, DC and Baltimore. He has recently given a lecture recital at Mount Vernon, a Civil War period performance for the New Year's Eve Ball in Gettysburg, and a commemorative performance of Robert E. Lee's favorite hymn at the 200th Lee birthday ceremony in Stratford, Va.

Jimerson’s recordings include 18 CD's of historical and operatic music. His patriotic CD, "God Bless America" was recorded with members of the U.S. Navy Band. The "Schubert: Die Schöne Müllerin" recording is one of very few recent recordings of this landmark composition for tenor. His latest project is a recording of Civil War music called "Civil War" which is a joint project with www.civilwar.com and is featured on the home page of this web address. The songs performed during his recital/presentation at the Conference are available on the AmeriMusic label.

The Washington Post has written, "For years, Jimerson has been researching and performing music of the 19th century. He has an ideal voice for it - not heavily operatic but light, clear, and agile, with a knack for getting the words across."

Jim Johnson, Senior Manager of Creative Programs at the Henry Ford has been with the organization for nearly 30 years. This entire time has been devoted to planning and presenting a wide variety of historic public programs. Jim holds undergraduate degrees in history and historic preservation from Eastern Michigan University, and a Masters Degree in American History from Wayne State University. His concentration of study and thesis centered on the civilian perspective of Sharpsburg, Maryland before, during, and after the Battle of Antietam.

Jim has a number of areas of interest that support his work at the Henry Ford that include; historic gardening and landscape design, agricultural history, historic foodways, especially holiday recipes, historic interior design and architecture, and social history with a focus on the celebration of American holidays.

The new Ragtime Street Fair, Motor Muster, Old Car Festival, Hallowe’en in Greenfield Village, and Holiday Nights are among the programs presented by Jim and his team at the Henry Ford.

Tom Kelleher is currently Curator of Historic Trades, Mills, and Mechanical Arts at Old Sturbridge Village in Sturbridge, Massachusetts. In over twenty four years at that premier living history museum, he has worked as a costumed historical interpreter, trainer for the cooper shop, supervisor of the mills, coordinator of historic trades, research historian, program coordinator, and managed staff training. Tom has researched and developed dozens of historic characters and programs, which he has presented at scores of museums, schools, and historical societies around the country. He has also taught a variety of craft skills and historical subjects to museum staffs as well as the general public and at teacher workshops throughout the United States and Canada. Active in a number of professional organizations, including the Association for Living History, Farm and Agricultural Museums where he is on the board of directors, Tom has conducted training for interpreters, teachers, docents and guides at over a dozen parks and museums.

Before entering the museum field, Tom taught social studies at the secondary level in Norwalk, Connecticut. He earned a Bachelor of Science degree in history and education from Western Connecticut State College, and a Master's degree in history from the University of Connecticut. His writings on technology, history, historical drama and other museum-related topics have been published in several journals as well as books and popular magazines. Originally from Norwalk, Connecticut, Tom now resides in Warren, Massachusetts.

K. Krewer has been a Civil War reenactor for twenty-six years and a Revolutionary War reenactor for sixteen years. In real life, K. is an attorney and chief of the Business Law Division of the legal office of the U.S. Army Sustainment Command at historic Rock Island Arsenal. She earned a B.A. in political science and history and theatre from Upper Iowa University, and a J.D. from the University of Iowa. She is pursuing a Master’s degree in Strategic Studies from the Army War College where she is now learning about planning theater campaigns, but they were not impressed with her undergraduate theatre major.

A collector of garments and accessories from 1840-1865, items from her collection have been displayed at this and other conferences, seminars, history-related events, and museums. K and her husband, the Rev. Armin G. Weng, a Lutheran pastor, live near Orion, IL; her son still attends Western Illinois University. K is an ordained deacon in the Episcopal Church and is active in many congregational, professional, and community service activities.

Martha McCain grew up in a tiny town in the Kentucky bluegrass. She attended Northwestern University and the Yale Drama School. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband Roger Bardwell who is the head engineer for Hudson Scenic Studios.

Her first career – the one she planned on – was as a theatrical costume designer. Martha has designed for the Yale Rep, the Juilliard School, McCarter Theater, Alliance Theatre, Virginia Stage Company, The Walnut Street Theatre, GeVa, The Pennsylvania Stage Company, Indiana Rep, Folger Shakespeare Theatre, Barter Theatre, Wayside Theatre, New Stage Theatre, Circle Rep, Soho Rep, The Hartman Theatre, Art Park, and a TV variety series for the CBC in Canada. As a draper and costume maker she worked in New York at the Juilliard School, Brooks-Van Horn, Ray Diffen Stage Clothes, Eaves Costumes, The Public Theatre, Parsons-Meares, Ltd. She also draped at Actor’s Theatre of Louisville, The Neptune Theatre in Nova Scotia, and The National Theatre in Ottawa and The Manitoba Stage Company.

After retiring from costume design to tend to family matters, Martha worked for Butterick and McCall’s as an anonymous designer of children’s costumes and stuffed animals. In 1998 Martha joined the Simplicity family of free-lance designers. There she developed a line of historically accurate patterns for the Civil War era known as The Fashion Historian.

Martha’s interest in historical costuming has led her to spend many hours in museums with a tape measure, a camera and a notebook, studying the cut and the sewing details of garments. She collects original paper patterns, antique sewing books and fashion magazines, early photographs, and old, old clothes.

Michael Mescher has had a love of history for his entire life and has been reenacting the Civil War since 1988. Although his college degrees allowed him to graduate with hardly any college courses in history, he has been able to learn about the Civil war era using resources outside of an academic environment. He began studying the toys and games of the 19^th century as a way to keep his three sons entertained at reenactments. This pursuit expanded into an exploration of a variety of entertainments and pastimes for both children and adults. He has published booklets on Children’s Games and Parlor Games and has spoken on the subjects of toys, games, magic, and other entertainments several times at this conference, other conferences, and at reenactments. He counts it as a privilege to have been married to Virginia, his wife and companion on many vacation trips to historic villages and libraries for more than 30 years and from whom he has learned many research tips. At reenactments, when not in a confederate uniform he sometimes is found on Sutler Row offering period toys and games under the sign of Ragged Soldier Sutlery.

Virginia Mescher has been a living history interpreter and reenactor since 1988 and is now an independent researcher and freelance writer. She graduated from Virginia Tech in 1972 with degrees in Home Economics and Elementary, Secondary and Adult Education. She has spoken at various events, national conferences, museums and Elderhostel programs on subjects pertaining to the war-time homefront, domestic skills, culinary history and household items.

Virginia has also written articles for a number of Civil War related publications including The Watchdog, Civil War Historian, and in past years Citizens’ Companion and Camp Chase Gazette, as well as publications related to culinary history such as Food History News and the Oxford Encyclopedia to Food and Drink in America. She has done in-depth research and published booklets on laundry and military laundresses, foods, domestic skills, and material culture. She has also written and published books on 19^th century tatting, 19^th century cosmetics, and a database of a store ledger in Virginia for the years 1859-1861, titled Historic Accounts.

Virginia is a member of the Atlantic Guard Soldiers Aid Society (AGSAS) and the 42^nd VA, Co. I, reenactment group. She served on the board of the Society for Women and the Civil War from 2000 until 2006 and as president in 2005 and 2006.

Virginia and her husband Michael operate Ragged Soldier Sutlery and Vintage Volumes where they sell documented 19^th century toys, reproduction books and books on domestic skills, games and toys.

Born and raised in central Ohio, Wayne E. Motts graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.A. in history in 1989. Moving to Gettysburg in 1990, Wayne earned a Masters Degree in American History from the Shippensburg University of Pennsylvania in 1994. He was one of the youngest persons ever to complete the licensing process to be a Licensed Battlefield Guide at Gettysburg National Military Park. He has guided parties around the famous field for 20 years. He has spoken to a wide range of historical bodies and groups on topics related to the American Civil War including the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, DC. In addition to his speaking engagements, Wayne has published several pieces related to the American Civil War in a variety of publications. He is considered the leading authority in the nation on Southern General Lewis Addison Armistead of Pickett’s Charge fame and has published the only biography of the general entitled, Trust in God and Fear Nothing: Lewis A. Armistead, CSA.

For ten years Wayne was the research historian for renowned Civil War Artist Dale Gallon of Gettysburg where he assisted in the historical research of 40 works of fine art. He was also the Senior Research Historian for TravelBrains Corporation and in this capacity researched material to be included in a number of audio visual products related to the American Civil War. The products produced by his research have been endorsed by the History Channel and have won numerous awards.

In 2002, Wayne accepted the position of curator at the Cumberland County Historical Society where he managed a collection of 8,000 artifacts. In 2004, he assumed duties as the collections manager of the Adams County Historical Society in Gettysburg. In 2005, Wayne was named executive director of the Society where he oversees a staff of five and 60 volunteers.

Carolann Schmitt founded the Genteel Arts Academy in 1988 to encourage interest in the clothing and needlework of the Civil War era and assumed sponsorship of the Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference in 2001. She has a lifelong interest in historic costume, sewing, needlework and knitting and believes you can never have too many books or too much fabric. She is a member of the Costume Society of America, the Association of Living History Farms and Museums (ALHFAM) and several national sewing, knitting and needlework organizations.

Carolann is a member of the North-South Skirmish Association and has served as Chair and Judges' Coordinator for the association's Costume Committee. An accomplished seamstress, she has won numerous awards for her reproduction clothing and needlework; she is a three-time winner of the N-SSA's Delaney Award and the first winner of the association's Hulshart award for excellence in research and reproduction of Civil War era clothing.

Carolann has contributed articles to several Civil War-themed publications and is a featured speaker at conferences and historic sites throughout the country. When not pursuing 19^th century interests, she is employed as an FCC Licensing Specialist for a communications consulting firm. Studying mid-19th century clothing has been a passion of hers for almost 40 years.

Paul Shevchuk grew up in the lower Hudson Valley of New York State and attended the University of South Florida at Tampa, where he graduated with a Bachelor's degree in American History. For the past 30 years he has been with the National Park Service at Gettysburg, first as a Ranger-Historian on the battlefield and Eisenhower National Historic Site, and more recently as the Museum Specialist for Gettysburg.

Paul is also the author of several ground-breaking articles in the Gettysburg Magazine on the lesser-known cavalry actions during the Battle of Gettysburg. He has presented workshops on "Museum Practices for the Private Collector" at previous conferences.

A scientist, pilot, and teacher by vocation, Polly Steenhagen is an avid knitter and crocheter by avocation. She has a Bachelor’s degree in zoology, a Master’s in nutritional biochemistry, and a Ph.D. in science education. For the past 25 years she has been a flight instructor and, more recently, a college professor teaching aviation and math.

Polly began knitting when her grandmother taught her at age six. She began doing Tunisian crochet in her teens, making her own patterns for stuffed animals for a local hospital’s children’s ward. Polly is the co-author, along with Dr. Silvana Siddali, of two booklets on French Civil War knitting patterns and one on Tunisian crochet patterns. They are currently working on a crochet booklet.

Phillip Whiteman is a native of Atlanta, Georgia. He has a history degree from the University of Alabama and has been involved with reenacting/living history for 14 years. He started reenacting in a civilian role rather than a military one and has maintained his civilian interests in the mid-19th century culture. Along with 19th-century men's clothing, his primary interests are monetary and political aspects of the Civil War. He has participated in living history programs primarily at National and State Parks and at the historic homes of Roswell, Georgia. He has also provided educational presentations at Civil War reenactments, National and Regional conferences, historical society meetings, and local civic meetings.

Phillip is an active member of the Roswell Historical Society and assists at the society's Research Library and Archives. He has also been a tour guide for the Historic Roswell Convention and Visitors Bureau. He also gives battlefield tours at Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park and a member of the park's cannon crew.

Phillip, with his wife Janine, started the PNJW Collections Civilian Exhibit in 1997. This collection of the Civil War era includes men's, women's and children's clothing, shoes, hats, accessories and other civilian artifacts. The collection is used to create a traveling exhibit, which is periodically set up at historic sites and National Parks during the year.

Many of you are interested in reproducing mid-19^th century clothing and accessories. It's time to get out your work basket and create an entry for this year's competition for the best reproduction of a pair of slippers c.1855-1865.

Your slippers may be for a man, woman or child. You may use any period technique or material, including but not limited to embroidery, Berlin work, knitted, crocheted, beadwork, cloth or leather.

Your entry must be an item commonly found and used between 1855 and 1865 and should be made using period construction techniques.

Two prizes will be awarded: one for the best reproduction as judged by the speakers; and one for the entry selected by popular ballot of the conference participants. Judging will be based on total points awarded for:

Pre-registration is requested so we may plan display space. A registration form can be found elsewhere on this page and will be included in the confirmation packet. Not sure if you'll get your entry finished? Pre-register just in case; there are no penalties if you decide not to enter.

“ANGELS PROJECT”

We ‘borrowed’ the concept for this project from the Costume Society of America, which has conducted Angels Projects in conjunction with their annual symposia for several years.

On Wednesday, March 4, a limited number of Conference participants will have the opportunity to serve as behind-the-scenes volunteers at selected local museums. Volunteers will assist museum staff with a number of tasks, including but not limited to: preparing and packing original garments in archival boxes, cutting and assembling archival materials to mount three dimensional objects, storing and filing periodicals and photographs, assisting with data entry, moving boxes to and within storage areas, and other tasks as assigned by the institution and staff.

Participation is limited. Applicants will be accepted on a first-come, first-served basis; a waiting list will be maintained in the event additional space becomes available. There is no fee for participants; however volunteers must supply their own transportation to and from the museum locations.

The Shippensburg University Fashion Museum and Archives is a unique educational laboratory and museum dedicated to enhancing an understanding of society through the study of costume. The Archives collects, preserves and interprets, in its historical and societal context, its holdings of apparel and related objects, which range from the 18th century to the present, with emphasis on items associated with middle-class and working Americans and with Pennsylvanians. The collection pays special attention to individuality, design and quality of fabric and construction. Limit: 12 volunteers, male and female.

Additional participating institutions will be announced as soon as details are confirmed.

The Marketplace features a select group of merchants offering carefully selected and documented merchandise. Some of the goods offered at previous conferences include: fabrics, trims, buttons, accessories for men and women, paper goods, books, children's toys, millinery, gentlemen’s hats and accessories, needlework tools and accessories, lacemaking and needlework supplies, antique jewelry, clothing and decorative accessories, music, current magazines and periodicals. The Marketplace will be open:

Admission is complimentary to conference participants; the general public may attend for a nominal fee. Individual and 3-day passes are available. A complete list of vendors and merchandise will be published at a later date.

NOTE: Merchant inquiries and requests for an application should be sent to Deborah McBeth, 28 Forest Street, Danvers, MA 01923 or at DLMAMSTS@aol.com or by calling 978-777-5257. Space is VERY limited and efforts are made not to duplicate the selection of merchandise. Applications will be accepted until October 15, 2008. After review by the jury, successful merchants will be notified by November 15, 2008. The selection process begins anew each year and the decision of the jury is final.

HOTEL INFORMATION

The Radisson Penn Harris is 15 minutes from the Harrisburg International Airport and five minutes from downtown Harrisburg and the Amtrak train station. It is within close proximity of I-81, I-83, I-76 (Pennsylvania Turnpike) and US Route 15. Driving time is 1 hr 45 min for those flying into Baltimore-Washington International airport. Historic sites in the area include Gettysburg (35 miles), the National Civil War Museum in Harrisburg (5 miles) and the U.S. Army War College in Carlisle (20 miles). The Radisson provides a complimentary 24-hour van service to and from the Harrisburg airport and the train station.

A block of rooms has been saved at $99.00 plus tax per night with 1- 4 persons per room. To receive the discounted rate, please state that you are with the Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference. The hotel will honor the reduced rate until February 8, 2009 at which time the price will return to the standard rate.

If you would like to extend your stay to include days before or after the conference, the hotel will honor the conference rate for your entire stay.

Hotel check-in begins at 3:00 PM. Early check-in may be permitted if rooms are available.

When registering, please advise the hotel if you are disabled or have special needs. Handicapped and first floor rooms have been reserved for the conference but the number of available rooms is limited. We respectfully request that only participants who need special consideration request these rooms.

SCHEDULE

7:30 Welcome Reception and Birthday Party – Governors Ballroom. Meet the speakers and your fellow participants and join us as we celebrate the 15^th anniversary of the Conference. Take part in period games led by Mike Mescher. Watch a slide show of highlights from previous conference. Enjoy birthday cake and ice cream. Win a door prize! Wrappers, dressing gowns and other forms of period lounging attire are welcome but not required.

7:00 Marketplace closes. Conference Opens. Combined session – all participants will attend. Welcome.

7:05 Douglas Jimerson, accompanied by the Civil War Comrades – The Music of our Hearts: The Influence of Popular Music on Abraham Lincoln and Robert E. Lee

9:45 Sessions close. Judging of competition entries. Displays open until 10:30 PM.

8:00 Opening Remarks – Presentation of Speakers’ Dresses and Vests – Combined Session Ballroom North

7:30 Dinner – Social hour and parlor games led by Mike Mescher to follow – Ballroom South

8:30 Susan Lyons Hughes – Code to Freedom, or Con Job? The Use of Quilts in Helping Slaves Escape to Freedom

10:15 K. Krewer – Mrs. Bloomer and her Scandalous Outfit: A Study in Utility and Symbolism.

8:40 Jim Johnson – Economy, Comfort, Neatness and Order: Domestic Technology in 1860s Households.

10:25 Phillip Whiteman – Money! Money! Money! Nineteenth Century Banking and State Currency

1:40 Carolann Schmitt – Sarcenet, Satinette and Silesia: Selecting Fabrics for Men’s Civilian Clothing.

3:25 Jim Johnson – A Placid Beauty Seldom Seen: Rural Architecture, Landscape and Technologies of the 1860s

8:30 Colleen Formby – “What Adam Drank in Paradise”: A Look at the Virginia Springs

10:15 Virginia Mescher – Not in Technicolor: Photography in the Nineteenth Century

Save the Date! The Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference will celebrate its 16^th Anniversary on March 4-7, 2010.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Printable information and registration forms in PDF format are available when 2010 conference information becomes available.

Registration forms are also included in the Conference brochure mailing. Contact us if you would like a conference brochure and/or registration form mailed to you. Please complete a separate form for each participant. You may register:

Conference registration is limited and workshops fill up quickly. Don’t be disappointed; early registration is strongly encouraged!

The registration fee includes admission to the reception, conference sessions, displays, and Marketplace; conference notebook; door prizes; all meals and breaks on Saturday and Sunday; and preferred registration for the pre-conference seminars, tours and workshops (additional fees for pre-conference sessions).

Payment may be made by check, money order, Visa, Mastercard or Discover. We do not accept American Express, foreign currency or your first-born child. Checks or money orders should be made payable to Genteel Arts LLC.

A two-payment plan is offered. The first payment of $125.00 must be included with the registration form; the second payment of $125.00 (includes a $5.00 handling fee) must be received no later than January 5, 2009 or penalties will apply. Full payment for pre-conference workshops and seminars must be included with the initial registration form.

I’m a poor college student on a very limited budget. Do you offer a student discount?

A reduced registration fee of $175.00 is offered to full-time college students. Please note you’re the name of your college or university on the registration form.

Well-behaved young ladies and gentlemen age 17 and under are also encouraged to attend with a responsible parent or adult. A special registration rate is available. Junior participants receive the same benefits as adult participants.

Saturday breakfast, lunch, dinner, morning and afternoon breaks; Sunday breakfast and morning break.

A vegetarian option is available for Saturday dinner; please indicate your preference on the registration form. All other meals are buffets with a variety of selections that should accommodate most diets. Please contact us if you need more specific information; the hotel will attempt to accommodate medically necessary diets.

Are there any programs for guests who are not participating in the conference?

You may bring a guest to Saturday dinner for an additional fee; please include his/her name on the registration form. If your guest will be with you for the entire weekend, a complete meal package including admission to the vendor area and displays is available. Guests may also purchase individual passes for the Marketplace. And there are many attractions – both historical and general interest - in the area.

Your best period attire is requested but not required for dinner Saturday evening. You are invited to wear your period wrappers, dressing gowns and lounging attire for the Pajama Party/Movie Night Thursday evening. Casual dress is appropriate for the rest of the time.

In true Victorian fashion, we assign seating at dinner so that you may meet someone new who shares your interest in Civil War era clothing and culture. However, we understand that some of you prefer sitting with someone you already know. Dinner guests, of course, are seated with their partners. Please indicate your seating preference on the registration form. Tables are set for groups of eight.

I’d like to sign up for Program A, but I’d also like to attend one of the presentations in Program B. Can I cross-over for that session?

Yes, if (and it’s a big “if”!) space permits. Seating is limited for Program B, and preference is given to those who registered for that program. Once all available space including standing room is filled the doors will be closed.

Can I sign up for specific programs, i.e. two sessions in Program A and two sessions in Program B?

No, the notebook only includes the handouts for the joint sessions and the program for which you are registered. However, you may order a set of handouts for the other program for an additional fee. Please indicate your wishes on the Registration Form.

The hotel and Conference Center are in connecting buildings. No long walks, no driving.

The hotel has a full-service restaurant - “The Bridges” - open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. There are also several restaurants and fast-food options within walking distance or a short drive.

This is going to be our vacation. Can we arrive at the hotel a few days early, or stay over a few days?

Yes! And the hotel will honor the conference rate for your entire stay. You must state you are with the Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference when registering to receive the conference rate for your entire stay.

A $15.00 handling fee will be charged on all cancellations. Full refunds for cancellations made on or before January 26,, 2009. 50% refunds for cancellations made on or before February 7, 2009. No refunds after February 7, 2009; however substitutions will be allowed, or the amount may be applied toward registration for the 2010 Conference.

Presentation Schedule – Subject to Change
Friday	Saturday - Program A	Saturday - Program B	Sunday
The Influence of Popular	Code to Freedom, or Con Job?	Economy, Comfort, Neatness	"What Adam Drank in Paradise"
Music on Abraham Lincoln	The Use of Quilts in Helping	and Order: Domestic Technology	A Look at the Virginia Springs
and Robert E. Lee	Slaves Escape to Freedom.	in 1860s Households

Douglas Jimerson	Susan Lyons Hughes	Jim Johnson	Colleen Formby
Phrenology:	Mrs Bloomer and Her Scandalous Outfit:	Money! Money! Money!	Not in Technicolor:
Quackery, or the	A Study in Utility and	Nineteenth Century Banking	Photography in the
Science of the Mind?	Symbolism	and State Currency	Nineteenth Century

Tom Kelleher	K. Krewer	Phillip Whiteman	Virginia Mescher
	Crowning Glories:	Sarcenet, Satineete & Silesia:
	Hair Combs in the	Selecting Fabrics for Men's
	Nineteenth Century	Civilian Clothing

	Stacy Hampton	Carolann Schmitt
	Sheer Pleasure:	A Placid Beauty Seldom Seen:
	Transparent Accessories,	Rural Architecture, Landscape
	1855-1865	and Technologies of the 1860s

	Carolann Schmitt	Jim Johnson


2009 Pre-Conference Workshops/Tours/Seminars

Time	Thursday Half-Day Sessions	Time	Friday Half-Day Sessions
9:30AM	19th Century Knockoffs:	9:30AM	19th Century Knockoffs:
	Taking Patterns from Originals		Taking Patterns from Originals
	Making Hair Pieces &		Making Hair Pieces &
	Adding them to your Hairstyle		Adding them to your Hairstyle
	Tunisian Crochet for		Tunisian Crochet for
	Non-Crocheters		Non-Crocheters
	Altering Basic Sleeve		Crowning Touch: Simple
	Patterns for Style		Net, Ribbon & Lace Cap
	Workshop/Tour of		Pierced Perfection!
	GNMP Archives		Cutwork Paper Bookmarks
	Workshop/Tour		I've Got a Secret!
	of ACHS & CW Study Center		Examining Originals
	Making the Elegant
	Handscreen (all day)
1:30PM	19th Century Knockoffs:	1:30PM	19th Century Knockoffs:
	Taking Patterns from Originals		Taking Patterns from Originals
	Making Hair Pieces &		Making Hair Pieces &
	Adding them to your Hairstyle		Adding them to your Hairstyle
	Tunisian Crochet for		Tunisian Crochet for
	Crocheters		Crocheters
	Altering Basic Sleeve		Crowning Touch:
	Patterns for Style		Simple Net, Ribbon & Lace Cap
	Workshop/Tour of		Pierced Perfection!
	GNMP Archives		Cutwork Paper Bookmarks
	Workshop/Tour		I've Got a Secret!
	of ACHS & CW Study Center		Examining Originals
	Making the Elegant		The Artifice of Dressing Well:
	Handscreen (all day)		Selecting Flattering Styles