ARCHIVED INFORMATION FOR THE 2007 CONFERENCE

- FOR REFERENCE ONLY -

THE THIRTEENTH ANNUAL

LADIES & GENTLEMEN OF THE 1860s CONFERENCE

March 1-4, 2007 in Harrisburg, Pa.

"Genteel Arts Academy" and "Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference" are subsidiaries of Genteel Arts, LLC

Page Index & Quick Links
| Welcome | Some Participant Comments about Previous Conferences |
| Presentations | Hands-On Workshops & Seminars | Speakers |
| Sewing & Needlework Competition (includes entry form downloads) |
| Marketplace | Hotel Information | Schedule |
| General Information (including downloadable registration forms) |
| Return to Genteel Arts Home Page |

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(If you do not have an Abode Acrobat reader, you may download one here free.)

            Welcome to the premiere Conference on the clothing and culture of the mid-nineteenth century!  In its thirteenth year, the Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference is sponsored by Genteel Arts, and will be held from March 1-4, 2006 in Camp Hill (Harrisburg), PA.  You are invited to join us for a weekend of informative presentations, hands-on workshops and seminars on a variety of topics about the men and women of the Civil War era, what they wore, and how they lived.
           The 2007 Conference features a full program of presentations of interest to both ladies and gentlemen. Participants will attend a combination of joint and concurrent sessions. Complete details may be found in the sections Presentations, Speakers and Schedule.
            Conference participants may also take part in any of the pre-conference seminars, tours, and hands-on workshops.  In response to requests from participants traveling from across the country, the workshop schedule has been expanded to Thursday and Friday.  Space permitting, these sessions will also be open to members of the general public. Further information may be found in the section on Hands-On Workshops and Seminars.
            The Conference provides an opportunity for historians, researchers, museum personnel, reenactors and other enthusiasts to meet with their counterparts from across the country.  Attendees at previous conferences have hailed from 30 states and two countries. On Thursday evening participants and their guests are invited to the Welcome Reception and Movie Night. Come meet the speakers and your fellow participants and join us for a Civil War-themed motion picture (feature attraction to be announced). Pajamas, wrappers and dressing gowns are welcome but not required; beverages, snacks and popcorn will be provided.
            Throughout its history the Conference has been pleased to feature over fifty speakers and instructors who have graciously shared their knowledge with the participants. Many are nationally recognized for their body of knowledge and expertise in their area of interest. Their informed and learned presentations are one of the key elements of the Conference’s success. Participants will be able to meet and chat with current, prior and future speakers at the reception.
           As in previous years, one of the outstanding features of the conference will be the extensive Displays of original garments, undergarments, accessories, jewelry, and artifacts.  These displays are made possible by the gracious participation of conference attendees, who are encouraged to bring items from their private collections for viewing by other enthusiasts.  The displays change daily and may be photographed.
            The conference also includes a juried Marketplace featuring a variety of merchants offering carefully selected and documented merchandise.  Admission to the Marketplace is complimentary for conference participants; the general public may attend for a nominal fee.  A list of participating merchants will be posted at a later date.
            If you enjoy reproducing period clothing or accessories, be sure to enter this year’s competition for the best reproduction of a pair of a quilted petticoat.  See the section on the Competition for complete information.
            We encourage family members interested in civilian impressions and activities to join us for the weekend.  A reduced registration fee is offered to junior attendees, and guests are invited to join us for either Saturday dinner or for all meals throughout the Conference (additional fee applies).  Additional information is available in the General Information section.
            Make plans now to attend this enriching weekend and meet, laugh and talk with others who share a dedicated interest in the clothing and culture of the Civil War era. Complete conference details, hotel information and registration forms are listed below.  Register early!  Previous Conferences have been sold out!

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- SOME COMMENTS ABOUT PREVIOUS CONFERENCES-

"The conference always supplies me with new and invaluable information which I have been able to put into use in my civilian impression."

"Excellent! Well organized, on time, nice venue, GREAT speakers!"

"Great mix of topics relating to both the North and the South!"

“A good balance of subjects: external appearances as well as the sociology and mindset of the day—Thank you!"

"This was my first time and I have learned so much.  Too bad we can't make this conference mandatory for all reenactors before they go out in public!"

"The displays of original garments are amazing!  The opportunity to view so many of them up close is priceless—worth the price of the conference alone!"

"As a male and primarily military, I am impressed with the work and dedication of the civilian ladies."

"Outstanding speakers, displays and vendor area."

"Very educational, well organized, great way to network with others and form new friendships."

"The conference is always an anticipated delight—the knowledge learned from speakers and visual displays is unparalleled. Impossible to always be perfect, but each year is the best offered anywhere."

"I'm thrilled to see more on men's clothing, which will help a lot in sewing for my husband, and is interesting in itself and in understanding the era."

"Very informative—not only with techniques and alternatives, but also the culture and social aspects."

"This is my first conference. (I am a relative 'newbie'.) I loved it! So much more professionally managed and presented than I expected."

"The two different sessions on Saturday were great.  It gave a chance for my husband to participate."

"I like the dual-track on Saturday.  My wife and I double-teamed—she did one and I did the other."

"I looked forward to attending the conference with high expectations. The conference far exceeded my anticipations."

"I do think that the military side of reenacting should attend.  They would get so much from it."

"Broaden your background—attend this conference!"

"Always new knowledge for everyone no matter what level of re-enacting they occupy."

"The expanded number of workshops with the element of hands-on learning was excellent. It's wonderful to have so many choices."

"Glad to see presentations on 19th-century life other than clothing."

"The pre-conference tours were incredible!"

"The workshops I've taken over the years have always been so informative and have so much information for my group.  FUN!"

"I love that all of the meals are included. I go to many conferences in connection with my work, and have gone through too much wasted time/frantic search for a quick meal. It also gives us that much more time for networking."

"VERY professionally run. My employer offers conference management services and we could not have done it better. Any equipment (AV) needs were seamlessly dealt with."

"The more people we can wean away from shoot-em-ups the better the hobby will be. And the better will be our ability to demonstrate 19th-century history to the rest of the 21st-century world."

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- PRESENTATIONS -

The American Brass Band Movement 1835-1865

Bruno J. Pino Jr., with a live performance by the Indiana Brass Band

           This lecture/performance will focus on the early years of the American Brass Band Movement and how it and the music that was ultimately produced clearly reflected the effects of 19th-century social, political, industrial technology, transportation and military influences. The performance will demonstrate with the use of waltzes, quicksteps, and operatic and other musical selections how the town band truly presented 19th-century America. The presentation will utilize music that is original to the time period and the selections will be performed on original 19th-century brass wind and percussion instruments.

Photography in Civil War Baltimore: A Model for Researching Photographs

Ross Kelbaugh

           Caught between Southern sympathy and Northern determination, the citizens of Baltimore found themselves in a position unique for any city of the Union during the Civil War. This presentation begins with an overview of the practice of photography and the common types of photographs produced during the Civil War era. It continues with the story of the major photographs and their makers in the Monumental City, from the blood shed by the first Confederate and African-American casualties of the Civil War, to the arrest of photographers and the regulation of the photography industry, through the banning of the images up until even the war’s end told through a dramatic narrative accompanied by many rare photographs drawn from the Kelbaugh Collection and other private resources. The presentation also gives a “behind the scenes” look at the variety of primary source resources used to uncover these stories that can be used by conference participants to research their own Civil War photographs.

The Nightmare of the Roswell Mill Workers: Arrested for Treason

Phillip Whiteman

          The small town of Roswell, Georgia operated three textile mills during the Civil War. As the Union army arrived in July 1864, an effort was made to protect the mills from capture but it failed. General Sherman wrote to the Union officer capturing the town: "I repeat my orders that you arrest all people, male and female, connected with those factories, no matter what the clamor, and let them foot it, under guard, to Marietta, whence I will send them by cars to the North." The 400 Roswell mill operatives were joined by another Georgia town's mill employees, who were also arrested. All the mill workers were sent to the North and arrived in Louisville, Kentucky, where later they were released across the Ohio River to search for employment.
           We will examine this simple mill town that was caught up in the Atlanta Campaign. What were the mill's products and how did they support the Confederacy? Why were the mill workers arrested and charged with treason? What happened to them after they were deported from the South? Let us look at the plight of the women, children, and a few men who, as civilians, became the target of a policy called 'total war' during the summer of 1864 in Georgia.

What’s Your Symbol? Six Feet Under and Not Forgotten Or,
Symbolism in Victorian Cemetery Art

Kay Cogswell

          How many times have you entered a cemetery, making a direct line to the grave of a lost loved one without taking time to notice the ladies, gentlemen and children that passed a century before? Gravestones and markers have a myriad of meanings and are symbolic of both comfort and grief. The tree stump, as an example, is often used to symbolize a life cut short and may even represent a “family tree”. The number of branches may indicate the number of children of the deceased and at the end of the branch; the child’s name may even be inscribed. This pictorial presentation will explore Victorian civilian tombstones – their architecture and the iconography of over 200 different symbols.

What, Where and When Do I Wear It? An Overview of Men’s and Women’s Accessories

Carolann Schmitt

           Period publications, etiquette manuals and ‘advice’ books are full of suggestions to men and women on how to dress and accessorize appropriately. Although the articles insist their “province is to advise, not to dictate”, and “we must make no rules absolute”, their instructions on “harmony in dress” can still be confusing. When we compare the styles show in period fashion illustrations, the advice in these manuals, original accessories and original photographs from the period, we’re even more confused!
           This profusely illustrated presentation will examine a variety of accessories for men and women: hats, caps and bonnets; collars, cuffs, cravats and bows; wallets, purses and reticules; braces and garters; gloves, mitts, mittens and muffs; parasols and umbrellas; scarves and hoods; jewelry and ornaments; handkerchiefs and fans, chatelaines and walking sticks. We will discuss appropriate shapes and styles, materials, and color combinations, and when and where the various items would and should be worn. Is this straw hat appropriate? Can I wear it to church? Must a gentleman always wear a vest? Do you have to wear some kind of wrap when you’re wearing a bonnet? Was your mother correct when she told you to “take one thing off before you got out the door”? We will discuss these questions and others as we consider how to “dress in harmony: harmony with our position, harmony with our persons, harmony of each part with the other”.

Pretty In Paisley: A Study of Shawls ‘in the Indian Manner’

Susan Lyons Hughes

            Probably the most important – and ubiquitous – fashion accessory for both men and women of the first three quarters of the 19th century was the shawl, and especially the shawl ‘in the Indian manner’. Today collectors and those interested in 19th-century clothing roughly group together many kinds of shawls and call them Paisley shawls, although that is not always a correct nomenclature. This presentation is an introduction for those interested in these highly collectible items.
            Women wore shawls of many types in the 19th century for both warmth and as decoration to their toilettes. But men wore shawls, too, mostly on top of an overcoat as an extra layer of warmth.
           The antecedent of what we in the 21st century call a “Paisley” shawl actually dates from the 15th century and from Central Asia. With the Mongol invasion of Kashmir, weavers from East Turkestan were brought into Kashmir, and they developed new techniques for weaving shawls using the twill tapestry technique. The Kashmir shawl, which took almost two years to weave, was primarily a male garment, and one that was highly valued.
           Europeans were introduced to Kashmir shawls in the mid-18th century, when travelers began to penetrate Central Asia. Notably, the traders of the East India Company sent home samples of Kashmir shawls, which became popular almost immediately, ironically, among females. The popularity of Kashmir shawls increased greatly after the return of Napoleon’s army from its Egyptian expedition in the 1790s. But Kashmir or Indian shawls were expensive, and thus became a status symbol reserved for only the wealthy. Entrepreneurs in Britain and France saw an opportunity, and began looking for ways to manufacture an affordable facsimile. A cottage industry soon sprang up in Paisley and Edinburgh, Scotland and in Norwich, England attempting to replicate the patterns and colors of these shawls. Shawls ‘in the Indian manner’ became one of the signature items of a mid-19th century lady’s wardrobe.
            This presentation will explore the development of the Kashmir shawl industry and the subsequent European attempts to provide affordable substitutes. One focus will be on the technological developments which made possible less expensive versions of these accessories, as well as on the changes in style brought about by European weavers. The presentation will also include suggestions on how to date shawls, as well as providing a colorful display of original garments and slides of shawls in other collections.

Sarah Josepha Hale: Beyond Godey’s – The 19th Century Influence of ‘The Lady Editor’

Janine Whiteman

           Sarah Josepha Hale was one of the most influential women in America in the nineteenth century, yet few know of her achievements beyond her tenure as the editor of the most widely circulated publication during the Civil War era, Godey’s Lady’s Book. By working within society’s boundaries, Mrs. Hale was able to see many of her “Causes” succeed, including convincing President Lincoln to establish Thanksgiving as a national holiday and helping to organize Vassar College – the first college for women. Only less remarkable than her accomplishments is the fact that she was a widow with five children, was 38 years old before she started her career, and all of her achievements took place after she was 40.
           This presentation will explore her many accomplishments and how as ‘The Lady Editor’ of Godey’s Lady’s Book, Mrs. Hale used its pages and her influence to improve the lives of American women.

Keeping Up Appearances: Fashion and Clothing in Adams County, Pennsylvania

Karin Bohleke

           There have been many discussions on the vagaries of fashion between large cities and small towns. Was the clothing worn by men, women and children in small rural communities relatively stylish or sadly out of fashion? This presentation focuses on surviving clothing from one small town in a rural Pennsylvania county that history made famous.
           Fashionable yet frugal, many articles of Civil War clothing from Adams County have been preserved. For some, it was their associations with the war that led to their survival; for other items, it was simply the Victorian habit of saving everything. Photographs, business records, diaries, and the clothing itself will illustrate the prevailing fashion in Gettysburg and Adams County, Pennsylvania during the Civil War. Alterations for changes in body and style will be illustrated, and the fine collection of children’s clothing from the Adams County Historical Society will be shown, many of which items have never been seen or photographed before.

Manly Entertainments: Recreational Activities for Gentlemen

Michael Mescher

           We generally don’t think too much about the recreational pursuits of men during the Civil War era. Of course, when we think of men’s recreation, organized sports come to mind, especially professional sports. And, for informal activities, there are the classics of drinking, pursuing the gentler sex, smoking, and gambling. However, there were also a variety of socially acceptable activities available to the men of the time period.
           Sometimes their activities were merely versions of the same pursuits they practiced as boys. Other entertainments which required more strength, judgment, and/or maturity were reserved for men. Still others were social activities involving interaction with women. In the first category are such games as chess, checkers, cards, nine pins, and baseball. Pastimes in the second category men might include such activities as hunting, horse racing, various forms of card games, and billiards. The last category might include dancing, boating, or hiking in a mixed group.
           This presentation will explore manly entertainments – both indoors and outside – and devote particular attention to those that could be included in a reenactor setting or included in modern gatherings for entertainment. Come prepared to find about the amazing abundance of recreational pursuits available to men of the Civil War era and participate in some demonstrations.

Iowa in the Civil War: Ride with the Devil Meets Dances with Wolves

K. Krewer

           Meet such colorful characters as Dred Scott, John Brown, Amelia Jenks Bloomer, Annie Wittenmyer and Brigadier General Samuel Curtis in this look at Iowa - which had only been a state for 15 years when hostilities broke out. Iowa was uniquely situated: “civilized” in the east along the Mississippi, but still being settled in the west, its population more than tripling in the decade between 1850 and 1860. It was vulnerable to attack by Southern partisans on its southern border with Missouri, and vulnerable to Indian raids in the north and west. Many Iowa soldiers who thought they were enlisting to "go fight the rebels" actually found themselves on frontier duty in the west, or found service in the Army's response to the Sioux uprising in Minnesota in 1862. Other Iowa soldiers found themselves in battle for the first time at Wilson's Creek, or at Shiloh - where more than one-third of Iowa troops were casualties - and participating in Sherman's March to the Sea.
           Fully half of the men of military age served with Union forces - the highest percentage of any Northern state - leaving women to run farms and businesses. Many Iowa civilians were active in relief and sanitary commission efforts, establishing its own state sanitary commission not once, but several times, in a clash with both political and gender issues.
           No battles were fought in Iowa, but the Civil War had an enormous impact on the people of the state, just as Iowans had a great impact on the course of the War.

What’s On the Grocer’s Shelves? Exploring the World of Mid-19th Century Food

Virginia Mescher

           Just take a step back in time. Oh, but that’s what we do whenever we participate in living history. This time it will be to enjoy the food, and you don’t have to worry about gaining an ounce. Close your eyes and imagine a room with shelves on three sides and darkened corners. This room is packed with almost every thing a household needs from various foods to farm equipment. On the shelves are jars filled with pickles, fruits, jams and jellies. There are tinned cans holding tomatoes, beans, peas, and fruits. Fanciful shaped jars hold pepper sauces, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and varieties of ketchup. Keeping your eyes closed, try to imagine the smells (only the good ones) of a period grocery store: the smokiness of ham and bacon, the sharpness of the pickle barrel, the dustiness of the sawdust on the floor, the cloying sweetness of the molasses barrel, the sweetish smell of tobacco, the fishy ocean smell of the barrel of salted fish, and the salt of the pork barrel.
           Despite all the differences between our lives and the lives of citizens of the 19th century, one thing we all have in common is food. We all have/had to eat and although we consume more pre-made and convenience foods than our ancestors did, there are still some foods that we have in common.
           This presentation will explain brand name and convenience foods that were available during the period and are still available today, seasonal and commonly available foods, leavenings, and if time permits, food preservation methods. There will also be an extensive display of many of the containers and foods.

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SEMINARS, TOURS AND HANDS-ON WORKSHOPS

            The pre-conference seminars, tours, and hands-on workshops will be held Thursday and Friday, March 1-2, 2007.  Most sessions are 1 hour, 45 minutes in length; all day sessions are approximately 6.5-7 hours. In some instances, a modest fee payable to the instructor will be charged for supplies and materials for the hands-on workshops.  A complete schedule and full details including a list of any items to be brought by participants are listed below.
            Priority registration is given to conference participants. Registration will be accepted from the general public after January 31, 2007, space permitting.
            In order to accommodate as many participants as possible, especially those arriving later in the day, we ask that you register for the earliest session your schedule permits. Please indicate on the registration form your first, second and third choices for each workshop; please check your registration form for accuracy before submitting.
            The Conference reserves the right to cancel a session if there is insufficient registration. Register early, space is limited!

Gettysburg's Best Kept Secret:
Researching and Visiting the Adams County Historical Society

Wayne Motts

            Participants will learn the ins and outs of researching at this historical institution and by extension similar historical organizations, including what is available, how to access the information and holdings, rules for researching in a special collections environment, obtaining permissions for reproduction and publications, and more. Following the presentation, a tour will highlight the Society's vast collection of archival material, books, images, and objects related to the 206-year history of Adams County, Pennsylvania.
            This seminar/tour will be held at the Adams County Historical Society, Schmucker Hall (on the Lutheran Theological Seminary Campus) in Gettysburg. Transportation to/from Gettysburg is the participant's responsibility. The tour requires climbing four flights of steps and is limited to 20 participants. Fee: $30.00. A portion of the proceeds from these sessions will benefit the Adams County Historical Society. Session is 2 hours in length. Thursday, March 1, 10 AM and 2 PM. Please enter key word ACHS on the registration form.

Behind the Scenes: Workshop and Tour of the Collections
of the Gettysburg National Military Park

GNMP Staff: Greg Goodell, Chief of Museum Services and Paul Shevchuk, Museum Specialist

            In this workshop, participants will learn how to gain access and conduct research in Nationl Park Service collections. After the workshop, participants will be guided on an in-depth tour of the museum and archival collections of the largest Civil War collection in the National Park Service. The tour will include a brief history of the collection along with how the park catalogs, stores and preserves its objects. Of particular interest to conference participants will be the opportunity to see, examine, and comment (providing your own expert knowledge) on some of the civilian-related objects in the Gettysburg collections.
            This seminar/tour will be held at the Gettysburg National Military Park Archives in Gettysburg. Transportation to/from Gettysburg is the participant's responsibility. Participants will be walking and standing on a concrete floor for the entire session; entrance to the building requires walking over uneven ground. This session is limited to 30 participants. Workshop Fee: $30.00. A portion of the proceeds from these sessions will benefit the Gettysburg National Military Park. Session is 2 hours in length. Thursday, March 1, 10 AM and 2 PM. Please enter key word GNMP on the registration form.

From Wet Plates to Megapixels: Using Digital Technology to Study 19th Century Photographs

Don Schmitt

           Period photographic techniques produced images with incredibly high resolution, making them ideal for studying the smallest detail – if you know how to enhance and enlarge them. Recent advances in digital technology allow the researcher to photograph and enlarge for study details that are difficult to distinguish with the naked eye. On-line databases have made access to tens of thousands of original images easy and affordable to anyone with an Internet connection.
           Participants in this hands-on workshop will learn how to use the digital cameras and photographic accessories to take clear, sharp photos of original images, clothing and artifacts. They will learn how to use Adobe Photoshop Elements, Microsoft Photo Editor or similar software programs to enhance, crop and/or enlarge digital images for research and study. Other topics to be discussed include photographing vs. scanning; suggested minimum standards for digital cameras, computers and software; sources for purchasing these items; and how to save and store images for future use. Digital cameras and laptop computers will be available so that each student can learn how to use the equipment and software. Students with their own digital cameras and/or laptop computers with photo-enhancing software are encouraged to bring them to the workshop. Thursday, March 1, 9:30-12:30 or 2:00-5:00. Workshop fee: $30.00. Please enter key word Digital on the registration form.

What, Where and When Do I Wear It? An Overview of Men's and Women's Accessories

Carolann Schmitt, Assisted by Deborah McBeth

           Even experienced modern seamstresses can be confused by mid-19th century construction techniques. You finish the bottom of the skirt before the top of the skirt? What’s an ‘offset’ or ‘dog-leg opening’? Are these curved lines seams or tucks? Self-fabric piping? Hooks-and-eyes? Did they even have sewing machines back then?
           This hands-on workshop will guide the student through the sequences of dress construction using period construction techniques - from cutting out to the final thread loop. Along the way students will construct a reduced-size bodice and section of a skirt while learning how to do the following techniques characteristic of mid-19th century construction: hem facing and braid, gauging and pleating - including how to attach it to the bodice, side-front skirt opening, self-fabric piping, boning, curved back seams, and concealed hooks-and-eyes. Original and reproduction garments will be available for reference. Thursday, March 1, 9:30 AM-5:00 PM with lunch break. Workshop fee: $55.00. A kit containing pre-cut reduced-size bodice and skirt panel, pre-cut hem facing and braid, extra fabric and cord for piping, hooks-and-eyes and bones will be provided; kit fee: $10.00. Students will receive a list of necessary sewing tools and notions. Please enter keyword Dressmaking on the registration form.

Peterson’s Magazine Lady’s Nécessaire; or, Godey’s Lady’s Book Housekeeper’s Châtelaine

Karin Bohleke

An Image of the original <I>Peterson's Magazine</I> Lady's Nécessaire An Image of the reproduced Nécessaire
Click on images for larger photos

           In 1862, Peterson’s Magazine offered instructions for a home-made châtelaine (which Godey’s Lady’s Book later copied in 1864) to hold all the basic sewing supplies: pins, thimble, thread, scissors, and needles. Made of silk or velvet ribbon, the châtelaine could be embroidered, beaded, or left plain. (Pictures of the chatelaine will be posted shortly.) After receiving a selection of period patterns, and using period-appropriate materials and techniques, the student will construct a châtelaine according to her preferences and tastes. Workshop fee: $55.00. Thursday, March 1, 9:30 AM–5:00 PM, with lunch break. Participants will receive a list of suggested materials and notions from the instructor. Please enter key word Châtelaine on the registration form.

Frock Coat Details Workshop Series

Jim Ruley

           One of the most challenging projects for a tailor (then and now) is constructing a civilian frock coat; and a properly constructed frock coat is truly a work of art. This series of three separate seminars gives an overview of frock coat construction, with each session featuring a particular aspect of construction that is unique to frock coats. Each session is independent and includes a “hands-on” element; students may take one, two or all three sessions. Finished and partially-assembled coats will be on display to help answer questions.

Workshop #1: Lapel and Collar Shaping and Finishing

The padding threading The back of the lapel Closeup of the collar The threading on the collar Sewing the pad The lapel felling
Click on images for larger photos

           One of the most common problem areas on reproduction frock coats is a collar and lapels that won’t stay in place or gets out of shape easily. This workshop will teach the appropriate tailoring techniques to prevent this problem. Students will learn how to use canvas stiffening and “pad stitching” to permanently give the lapel and collar a pleasing curved shape. Additionally, they will learn techniques to finish lapel and collar edges without topstitching. In addition to examining original and reproduction garments, students will construct a sample piece (partial lapel or collar) using the techniques discussed. Friday, March 2, 10:00 AM. Please enter key word Frock 1 on the registration form.

Workshop #2: Forepart Canvas, Padding and Interlining

Padding Canvas Lining
Click on images for larger photos

           Confused about all those layers in the chest of a man’s frock coat? This workshop will explain how they all work together to create the proper shape, and offer practical techniques for securing them in place. Students will learn how to use interlining to stabilize chest padding, and construct a sample piece illustrating quilting techniques. They will also learn how the body canvas gives shape to the wool shell and techniques for joining these layers together. Friday, March 2, 1PM. Please enter key word Frock 2 on the registration form.

Workshop #3: Tail Pockets

Internal Pocket External Pocket
Click on images for larger photos

           Tail pockets are a near universal feature of men’s frock and tail coats but pattern instructions are often sketchy and hard to follow. Students will learn simple methods to construct two styles of pockets; an externally reached variety opening into the tail pleat, and an internal style often seen on coats with unlined skirts. Pattern pieces will be provided and students will baste reduced-size versions together during the session. Friday, March 2, 3PM. Please enter key word Frock 3 on the registration form.
           Students will need to bring the following items: straight pins, white thread for basting, black thread (preferably silk but cotton-poly is OK) for padding and finishing stitching, hand-sewing needles, thimble (if you use one), beeswax, tailor’s chalk, and scissors. Workshop fee includes kit with all materials: $35.00/one session; $65/two sessions; $90/all three sessions.

An Introduction to Netting

Deb Bender

An Image of a Netted mitten An Image of a Netted pincushion
Click on images for larger photos

            Netting was primarily a utilitarian method of making fishing nets, and quite possibly the earliest form of openwork. Whether you are making a cargo net or the most delicate lace glove, the technique is the same. The design in Netting is achieved by joining, or grouping, mesh openings of various sizes.
           This workshop will serve as a brief introduction to the technique. Students will have an opportunity of working with several different tools, and will have the option to purchase them if they wish. Students should bring a pair of scissors and any netted lace pieces, tools or resources in their collection to share with the class. Workshop fee: $30.00. Materials Fee: $5.00 includes instructions, thread, and use of the netting tools. Optional: Kits - $8 and $14. Friday, March 2, 10 AM, 1 PM or 3 PM. Class limited to 12 students. Please enter key word Netting on the registration form.

Sparkle and Glitz Adorning Your Wrist: A Beaded Bracelet for Evening

Kelly Dorman

An Image of an 1857 Bracelet An Image of an 1857 Bracelet 2
Click on images for larger photos

           Participants in this hands-on workshop will learn the techniques for creating a beaded bracelet, suitable for evening wear, as described in the December 1857 issue of Peterson's Magazine. (Pictures of the bracelet will be posted shortly.) Additional items utilizing the basic construction techniques will also be discussed. Workshop fee: $30.00. A kit with all materials will be provided; kit fee: $15.00. Students should bring a small pair of scissors. Friday, March 2, 10AM, 1PM or 3PM. Please enter keyword Bracelet on the registration form.

“I Take Pen in Hand...” - Handwriting in Mid-Nineteenth Century America

Briant and Karin Bohleke

           Using copies of original American Civil War-era penmanship and handwriting lesson books, participants will receive an introduction to the styles of period writing and will also use original period ink pens to practice the forms and ligatures (links) common for the era. Through examination of original documents and letters of both the North and the South, participants will construct an alphabetic orthography chart for studying and imitating the handwriting of average persons alive during the Civil War, who would have learned penmanship during the preceding decades. Workshop Fee: $30.00. A kit including instructions and pen and ink for use during the workshop will be provided; kit fee TBA. There will be an opportunity to purchase the borrowed pen from the supplying sutler. A smock, apron, overshirt or oversleeves are advised if you are concerned about getting ink on your clothing. Friday, March 2, 10 AM, 1 PM or 3 PM. Please enter keyword Handwriting on the registration form.

Caring for Personal Collections, Including Conservation on a Budget
and Disaster Management

Paul Shevchuk

            In this workshop, the private collector will learn some simple care and preservation techniques used in the professional museum world. These techniques and tips can be easily adopted in most instances to improve the collector's ability to preserve, protect, care and exhibit their personal collections with a more professional touch. Areas to be covered include how to document your collection, proper cleaning techniques, storage and handling of artifacts, environmental storage concerns, custom-built storage containers, the selection and use of archival materials for artifact storage and display, conservation on a budget and disaster management. These topics will be applied in the care and preservation of textiles, leather, metal,paper, and wooden objects. Friday, March 2, 10 AM, 1 PM or 3 PM. Workshop fee: $30.00. Please enter keyword Collections on the registration form.

It Feels Like...And Looks Like... Understanding Mid-19th Century Textiles

Carolann Schmitt

           One of the most difficult aspects of reproducing mid-19th century clothing is selecting appropriate textiles. Some of the original fabrics, such as mourning crape, are no longer produced. Others, such as pique or superfine wool broadcloth, can be difficult to find. What’s the difference between lawn, batiste, mull and dimity? Period ‘calicoe’ and quilting calico? What is ‘hand’ and why is it important?
           Understanding period textiles requires a ‘Victorian eye’ and ‘educated fingers’. This workshop will help guide the new and the experienced student through the maze of period fabrics: fiber content, weave, colors and color combinations, dyes and dyeing, printing techniques and printed patterns. Each student will receive a workbook with information on textile production, an extensive glossary of fabric definitions and descriptions, and swatches of appropriate textiles – plain and patterned. We will discuss appropriate uses for each fabric, tests to determine fiber content, sources for purchasing appropriate fabrics. Along the way we will discuss some of the common myths and misconceptions about period textiles. Original garments constructed with various fabrics, including obsolete or difficult-to-find textiles will be on display for “touch-and-feel”. Friday, March 2, 3 PM only. Workshop fee: $30.00; workbook with swatches, $10.00. Please enter key work Textiles on the registration form.

Capping it Off!

K. Krewer

Cap 1 Cap 1 Cape 2 Cap 3 Cap 3 Cap 3
Click on images for larger photos

           Make a fancy cap! With net, lace, ribbon, and perhaps some wire, participants will learn to reproduce their choice of several simple caps. (Pictures of the original caps will be posted shortly.) Hand sewing is involved for all the caps, along with some pleating and gathering. You will be far enough along that you'll be able to finish your cap for Saturday evening's dinner! Participants will receive a list of supplies and materials required to make each cap. Workshop fee: $30.00. Friday, March 2, 10 AM, 1 PM, or 3 PM. Please enter keyword Caps on the registration form

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- SPEAKERS-

           Acknowledging a lifelong obsession for arts and crafts, Deb Bender has pursued training in the making and studying of lace techniques, quilting, sewing and needlework, as well as folk art and watercolor painting. She has taught classes/workshops as part of in-school academic programs, after-school enrichment programs, museums, art camps, guilds and private groups and organizations. She is currently a member of the Keystone Lace Guild, International Old Lacers, Inc., PA Heartland EGA, and the Embroiderers' Guild of America. Her passion is to teach hands-on skills to children and youth to help them find the inner satisfaction that comes from creating with one's heart, mind and hands.

           Briant Bohleke has been a vintage dancer since 1988, is a veteran dance instructor and has proctored Victorian balls and written articles on vintage dance. Briant and his wife Karin are continuing their dance research using primary sources and their dance ephemera collection, and have published together a series of articles on dancing in The Citizens' Companion. He has more recently published "Grace, Beauty and Flirtations on the Canvassed Field of Mars: Ephemera from the Second Corps Soirée" in the July/August 2006 issue of Civil War Historian. Karin and he are currently the dance master and mistress of the Civil War Dance Associates in Fairfield, PA.
            He earned his Bachelor's degree in Near Eastern Languages and Civilizations from the University of Chicago and his M.A., M.Phil, and Ph.D from Yale University, and most recently an M.L.I.S. degree from the University of Pittsburgh. He is currently teaching a western civilization course to graduate students at Hood College in Frederick, Maryland. Briant learned about handwriting the hard way while being trained in the paleographic intricacies of hieratic--an ancient Egyptian script--and during his work as an epigrapher with the Epigraphic Survey of the Oriental Institute of the University of Chicago. His experience with more recent scripts includes seemingly numberless (and overwhelming to him) collection of Civil War documents and his ongoing transcription, translation, and commentary upon a German-American (Connecticut) soldier's letters and diary now held at the Gettysburg National Military Park Archives. He will publish them when his other responsibilities give him an iota of down time.
           Briant is currently a Collection Technician at the Adams County Historical Society in Gettysburg, PA, cataloging the Collection of John S. Rice, the Adams County native who conceived of and chaired the 75th Anniversary of The Battle of Gettysburg Reunion of the Blue and Gray and dedication of the Etnernal Light Peace Monument.
           Briant was elated at the 2006 Conference to discover that he and Nicky Hughes share a life-long interest in the Soviet/Russian space program!
           Briant and Karin are still fortunate enough to be able to see Culp's Hill right outside the back window of their Gettysburg apartment. A portion of his Civil War military collection is on display at the Gettysburg National Military Park Visitors Center.

            Karin Bohleke holds a Ph.D. in French language and literature from Yale University, and is currently an adjunct professor at Hood College in Frederick, MD, where she teaches French, Russian and Humanities for the graduate school. She also has taught tatting at Harrisburg Area Community College-Gettysburg Campus.  An avid seamstress, embroiderer, and lace-maker since early childhood, she augmented her studies of vintage clothing styles by creating reproduction clothing when introduced to vintage ballroom and social dancing by her future husband. Together they collect vintage clothing, fashion magazines in French and English, cased images, cdv's, cabinet cards, and dance-related paper ephemera.
            A Norwegian by birth and a citizen of Canada, Karin now resides in Gettysburg, where she continues to pursue her interests in languages, social dance, costume, needle arts, and nineteenth-century women's travel accounts.  She is also a member of the Costume Society of America. Karin is a volunteer at the Adams County Historical Society and the Gettysburg National Military Park Archives, where she has assisted in the identification and dating of nineteenth-century photographs of women and evaluated the costume collections. She has published for Civil War Historian and The Citizens' Companion and is currently working on a book.

            Kay Cogswell has been involved in Civil War costuming activities since 1974. She is an active member of the North-South Skirmish Association’s (N-SSA) Costume Committee and served for two terms as Committee Chair. She also has held the positions of Judges’ Coordinator and is currently the Committee’s Training Coordinator. She is an award winning seamstress and also a prior winner of the N-SSA’s prestigious Delaney Award for the best reproduction garment made by the contestant judged on authenticity, construction, design and fit. In addition to being an avid researcher of original civil war costumes, she is a collector of hair jewelry and possesses an extensive collection of several hundred pieces. In 2006, Kay organized and judged the civilian costume competition for the 145th Reenactment of the Battle of Bull Run which was held at Cedar Creek Battlefield in Middletown, VA.
           Kay holds a Bachelors degree in Management from George Mason University and has been employed by Northrop Grumman Corporation for over 38 years as a Human Resources Manager. Kay resides in Vienna, VA with her husband, Mike. They have one child, Catherine, a Virginia Tech graduate who purchased Victorian era (c.1890) home in Berryville, Virginia that she is restoring.

            Kelly Dorman has been involved in Civil War living history since 1998 and is a member of the Michigan Soldiers' Aid Society, a civilian reenacting group. A lifelong fascination with history prompts her research into the lifestyles, clothing, handicrafts and foods of the past. A graduate of Michigan State University's medical technology program, she is employed at the Mackinac Island Medical Center, fulfilling a lifelong dream of living on historic Mackinac Island in northern Michigan.
            Kelly is also an award-winning, internationally-collected bead artist. She has two goals as an artist: first, to refine her skills by creating accurate reproduction bead work; and second, to combine traditional form and function with her own color and design sensibilities, thereby reinterpreting classic needlework styles to create modern, functional, wearable art. Kelly and her husband Robin live year round in their long awaited Craftsman-style bungalow surrounded by their extensive collections of vintage clothing, books, coopering tools, candy molds, fabric and beads.

            Greg Goodell is the chief of Museum Services at Gettysburg National Military Park. In this position, Greg has the responsibility of managing daily activities associated with the park's rich archival and museum collection. Greg has also served in a variety of archival and curatorial support positions in the NPS Northeast Region and was awarded the Region's curator of the year award for assisting in the recovery of archival collections at Jamestown following Hurricane Isabel in 2003.
            Prior to joining the park staff as the park's archivist in January 2001, Greg served as an archivist with the National Archives and Records Administration (NARA). While at the National Archives, Greg received his training in archival theory and management through the agency's Career Intern Development System. This included experience in various archival functions, including appraisal, processing, providing access to historical records, and modern records management. While at NARA, Greg worked in the Office of Presidential Libraries and records appraisal. Greg's professional experience has also taken him through both state and local non-profit historical institutions.
            Greg is a member of the Society of American Archivists. He also holds a Bachelor of Arts degree from the Johns Hopkins University and a Master of Arts degree from the University of Maryland.

             As an employee of the Kentucky Historical Society from 1978 until 1994, Susan Lyons Hughes had to resist collecting original garments that might conflict with her institution’s collecting interests. Blessedly, the members of the Shaker community at Pleasant Hill, Kentucky did not wear “paisley” shawls, so once she joined the staff at Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill, she was no longer enjoined against collecting these colorful and beautiful items. On an afternoon trip to a Lexington, Kentucky antique shop, she saw a woolen shawl in perfect condition, and it pleaded to go home with her. Although at the time, the price seemed steep, the shawl seemed worth the investment. Since then she has collected a number of these items, and continues to scour the bins of old textiles hoping to find more “piano scarves” priced at $30. Susan is at present Associate Editor of Civil War Historian magazine, and lives in Frankfort, Kentucky. Her husband, Nicky, has his own collection of paisley shawls!

            The Indiana Brass Band, under the direction of Bandmaster Bruno J. Pino, Jr., is a unique group of musicians recreating an accurate image of a 19th century town band (1835-1850) utilizing original music and restored percussion and brass wind instruments of the time period. The band's clothing is also reflective of that era. The original Indiana Brass Band performed in the Western Pennsylvania town of Indiana, PA as early as 1842. Members of the original Indiana Brass Band were recruited and served as bandsmen with the 105th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry (Wildcat Regiment Band) in 1861; just as the members of today’s Indiana Brass Band also serve as bandsmen in the current Wildcat Regiment Band. Most of the current Indiana Brass Band members still reside in this area of Western Pennsylvania and strive to accurately represent that heritage. The band has performed for many audiences at historic sites including National Park Service sites at Harpers Ferry, the C&O canal sites at Georgetown and Cumberland and the Allegheny Portage Railroad.

             Ross Kelbaugh, a retired teacher of American history in the Baltimore County Public Schools, is founder and CEO of Historic Graphics, LLC, a vintage image sales and services company in Baltimore, Maryland, established in 1983. His publications include Introduction to Civil War Photography; Directory of Maryland Photographers,1839-1900; the Directory of Civil War Photographers; Introduction to African American Photographs, 1840-1950; and The Civil War in Maryland: A Catalogue of Rare Photographs which accompanied the landmark exhibit he guest curated at the Maryland Historical Society in 2006. Photographs from his extensive collection have been widely published and were selected for use in several exhibits at museums around the country.

             K. Krewer has been a Civil War reenactor for twenty-something years and a Revolutionary War reenactor for over a dozen years. In real life, K. is an attorney and chief of the Legal Group at the Rock Island site of the U.S. Army Tank-Automotive and Armaments Command, at historic Rock Island Arsenal. She lives with her husband, the Rev. Armin G. Weng, a Lutheran pastor, on an acreage near Orion, IL; her son attends Western Illinois University. K is an ordained deacon in the Episcopal Church; is active in many congregational, professional, and community service activities; and is currently assisting her bishop in assembling his own 19th-century ecclesiastical wardrobe. She is a source of continual curiosity and bewilderment at the town post office, where she picks up package after package, explaining that they contain old clothes that no one can wear. These "old clothes" are the result of her incorrigible collecting of garments and accessories from 1840-1865; items from her collection have been displayed at seminars, conferences, history-related events, and museums.

             A lifelong student of history, especially the United States of America and its Civil War, Deborah "Debbie" McBeth has a Bachelor of Science in Nursing and worked for years in the field of Pediatric Intensive Care. Debbie has a passion for needlework in all its forms and is especially interested in ladies' fashions of the 1860s. A Civil War re-enactor since 1987, Debbie is one of the three founding members of the Hudson Valley Ladies' Aid Society: the first (and possibly still the) only all-female living history organization chartered under the New York State Department of Education. She has lectured throughout New England and New York on the women of the 1860s, their fashions, and their lives during the war. She has conducted several workshops and has been a speaker at previous Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conferences.
           Debbie is the owner of American Stitches, lectures on needlework for different groups and organizations, creates reproduction garments and accessories of the period, and teaches sewing and needlework to students of all ages. She is a member of the North Shore Civil War Round Table, the Costume Society of America, is a local and past national officer of the Smocking Arts Guild of America, and is presently the Assistant Superintendent of Essex County-Topsfield Fair's Home Arts Building (America's oldest running County Fair). Debbie and her husband Larry serve as the coordinators of the Marketplace for the Conference.

             Michael Mescher has had a love of history for his entire life and has been reenacting the Civil War since 1988. Although his college degrees allowed him to graduate with hardly any college courses in history, he has been able to learn about the Civil war era using resources outside of an academic environment. He began studying the toys and games of the 19th century as a way to keep his three sons entertained at reenactments. This pursuit expanded into an exploration of a variety of entertainments and pastimes for both children and adults. He has published booklets on Children's Games and Parlor Games and has spoken on the subjects of toys, games, magic, and other entertainments several times at this conference, other conferences, and at reenactments. He counts it as a privilege to have been married to Virginia, his wife and companion on many vacation trips to historic villages and libraries for more than 30 years and from whom he has learned many research tips. At reenactments, when not in a confederate uniform he sometimes is found on Sutler Row offering period toys and games under the sign of Ragged Soldier Sutlery.

             Virginia Mescher, a social historian, is a free lance writer and independent researcher. A 1972 graduate of Virginia Tech in Blacksburg, VA, she has been involved in Civil War civilian research since 1988, specializing in 19th-century social and domestic history with an emphasis on domestic skills, historic foodways, and material culture. Since 2001 she has served on the board of the Society for Women and the Civil War and served as president for 2005 and 2006. Virginia is also a member of the Atlantic Soldiers Aid and Guard Society and a civilian member of the 42nd Virginia Co. I.
           Now, an independent researcher, consultant and writer, she has written a number of books as well as being a contributor to several historically related publications, written articles for her webpage, and has been a consultant on historical movies and television shows. Virginia has also spoken at a number of conferences and reenactor events. Currently she is an associate editor for The Watchdog and is a contributor to Civil War Historian, the quarterly ALHFAM Bulletin, Food History News, The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America and various newsletters.
            Virginia and her husband Michael own and operate Ragged Soldier Sutlery and Vintage Volumes, which specializes in hard-to-find reproduction 19th-century toys, games, school supplies, craft and needlework supplies, dolls, and facsimile and modern books.

            Wayne E. Motts graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.A. in history in 1989. After moving to Gettysburg in 1990, Wayne earned a Masters Degree in American History from the Shippensburg University of Pennsylvania in 1994. He was one of the youngest persons ever to complete the licensing process to be a Licensed Battlefield Guide at Gettysburg National Military Park and has guided parties around the famous field for 18 years. He has spoken to a wide range of historical bodies and groups on topics related to the war including the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, DC.
            In addition to his speaking engagements, Wayne has published several pieces related to the American Civil War in a variety of publications. He is considered the leading authority in the nation on Southern General Lewis Addison Armistead of Pickett’s Charge fame and has published the only biography of the general, entitled Trust in God and Fear Nothing: Lewis A. Armistead, CSA. Professionally, he was the curator of the Cumberland County Historical Society in Carlisle, Pennsylvania for two years and then accepted the position of collections manager at the Adams County Historical Society located in historic Gettysburg in 2004. In 2005 he was named the Executive Director of the Society where he manages a paid staff of six and volunteer staff of fifty. The Society maintains a voluminous collection of manuscripts, county records, photographic images, books, and three-dimensional objects related to the history of Adams County, Pennsylvania. Wayne lives near Gettysburg with his wife Tina and nineteen year old daughter Brittney.

            James M. "Jim" Ruley got involved with living history by joining Co. B, 30th Ohio Volunteer Infantry in 1991. In addition to his military activities he dabbled in sewing through the '90s, but things got serious when he and fiancée Kay decided to have their wedding in period costume in June 2000. Jim's task was to make a frock coat for the best man (brother John), which led him to delve into period tailoring books when none of the commercial patterns available produced a good fit. The result fit so well that it led to numerous requests for custom tailored garments and patterns. It also led to more serious research into historical garment materials and construction techniques which continues today.
           Jim served as Co B's captain from 1998 through 2004 and is now the commanding officer of the "Army of the Ohio", a battalion-level reenactment unit. In addition to reenactment events he has worked on a number of movie projects, notably the "Chancellorsville" episode of the "Civil War Combat" series and "Soldiers All" with Historical Films, Inc. He is a member of the Sons of Union Veterans and the Company of Military Historians.
            In his “21st-century impression” Jim works as an aerospace engineer at Wright-Patterson Air Force Base near Dayton, OH. Jim and Kay enjoy sharing their circa 1845 home with their four cats when not away reenacting.

             Carolann Schmitt founded the Genteel Arts Academy in 1988 to encourage interest in the clothing and needlework of the Civil War era and assumed sponsorship of the Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference in 2001. Her lifelong interest in historic costume, sewing, needlework and knitting and believes you can never have too many books or too much fabric. She is a member of the Costume Society of America and several national sewing, knitting and needlework organizations. Carolann is a member of the North-South Skirmish Association and has served as Chair and Judges' Coordinator for the association's Costume Committee. An accomplished seamstress, she has won numerous awards for her reproduction clothing and needlework; she is a three-time winner of the N-SSA's Delaney Award and the first winner of the association's Hulshart award for excellence in research and reproduction of Civil War era clothing.
            Carolann has contributed articles to several Civil War-themed publications, is a featured speaker at conferences and historic sites throughout the country, and has been a continuing education instructor for Harrisburg Area Community College-Gettysburg Campus. She is the designer of several Civil War bears for a major manufacturer of collectible plush animals and resin figurines. Carolann is an FCC Licensing Specialist for a telecommunications consulting firm. Studying mid-19th century clothing has been a passion of hers for over 35 years.

            Don Schmitt became interested in photography, graphic arts and electronics when he was a boy. By the time he was sixteen he was a free-lance sports photographer for the local newspaper, the photographer for his high school newspaper and yearbook, and did all his own film processing and printing in his own darkroom. His fascination with digital technology began with his introduction to the first Apple II personal computer and led to a career as a Manager and Network Solutions Consultant for a regional computer systems integrator.
           Always fascinated by things that go boom and make smoke, Don became involved in reenactments and Civil War living history in 1969, and joined Knaps Battery E, North-South Skirmish Association in 1973. His original interest in military reenactment has evolved into an interest in civilian activities, a continuing interest in competitive Civil War era black powder shooting (small arms and artillery), and cowboy single-action shooting.
            Both Don and Carolann are fifth-generation residents of the Gettysburg area. They reside on the edge of the battlefield where they add to their collection of original Civil War era garments, pursue their interests in history, travel and amateur radio, and share space with two 24-pdr Coehorn mortars, one 12-pdr Confederate mortar and a pampered 1968 Shelby GT500KR Mustang.

             Paul M. Shevchuk grew up in the lower Hudson Valley of New York State and attended the University of South Florida at Tampa, where he graduated with a Bachelor's degree in American History. For the past 28 years he has been with the National Park Service at Gettysburg, first as a Ranger/Historian at the battlefield and Eisenhower National Historic Site, and more recently as the Museum Specialist for Gettysburg National Military Park's extensive museum collection of Civil War artifacts. He is also the author of several ground-breaking articles on the lesser-known cavalry operations during the Battle of Gettysburg featured in the Gettysburg Magazine. Paul presented the "Museum Practices for the Private Collector" workshop at the 2004 conference and the "Behind the Scenes: A Tour of the Archives and Museum Collections of Gettsyburg National Military Park" workshop in 2006.

             Janine Whiteman has been researching civilian aspects of the Civil War era for 12 years. Along with her husband Phillip, she started the PNJW Collections Civilian Exhibit in 1997. Not only did she want to collect and study the artifacts, she enjoys displaying and allowing others to see the collection as well. Reading newspapers, magazines, diaries and letters of those who lived in the mid-19th century is one of her favorite pastimes. Janine is a member of the Ladies' Soldiers' Friend Society living history group and has worked with other local groups to portray women's roles of the Civil War era. She has provided educational presentations at Civil War reenactments in Georgia, Florida and South Carolina, the Nashville Ladies Soldiers Friends Society conferences, historical society meetings and historic home docent workshops. She is a member of the Costume Society of America, and lives in the Atlanta GA area where she is involved with local historical societies and historic homes.

             Phillip Whiteman is a native of Atlanta, Georgia. He has a history degree from the University of Alabama and has been involved with reenacting/living history for 12 years. He started reenacting in a civilian role rather than a military one and has maintained his civilian interests in the mid-19th century culture. Along with 19th-Century men's clothing, his primary interests are monetary and political aspects of the Civil War. He has participated in living history programs primarily at State and National Parks and at the historic homes of Roswell, Georgia. He has also provided educational presentations at Civil War reenactments, the 2004 and 2006 Nashville Ladies Soldiers Friends Society Conferences, the 2006 Ladies and Gentlemen of 1860s Conference, historical society meetings and local schools.
            Phillip is an active member of the Roswell Historical Society and assists at the society's research library and archives. He has also been a tour guide for the Historic Roswell Convention and Visitors Bureau. Phillip is a member of the 21st Ohio Volunteer Infantry living history unit and the Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park Cannon Crew.
            Phillip, with his wife Janine, started the PNJW Collections Civilian Exhibit in 1997. This collection of the Civil War era includes men's, women and children's clothing, shoes, hats, accessories, and other civilian artifacts. The collection is used to create a traveling exhibit, which is periodically set up at historic sites and National Parks during the year.

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- SEWING & NEEDLEWORK COMPETITION -

           Many of you are interested in reproducing period clothing and accessories. It's time to get out your sewing basket and create an entry for this year's competition for the best reproduction of a pair of a quilted petticoat.
            Your entry must be one of the styles worn between 1855 and 1865 and should be made using period construction and/or needlework techniques.
            Two prizes will be awarded: one for the best reproduction as judged by the speakers; and one for the entry selected by popular ballot of the conference participants. Judging will be based on total points awarded for:

Pre-registration is requested so we may plan display space.  A registration form can be found immediately below on this page and will be included in the confirmation packet.  Not sure if you'll get your entry finished?  Pre-register just in case; there are no penalties if you decide not to enter.

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- MARKETPLACE -

           The Marketplace features a select group of merchants offering carefully selected and documented merchandise. Some of the goods offered at previous conferences include: fabrics, trims, buttons, accessories for men and women, paper goods, books, children's toys, millinery, gentlemen's hats and accessories, needlework tools and accessories, lacemaking and needlework supplies, antique jewelry, clothing and decorative accessories, music, current magazines and periodicals.  The Marketplace will be open:

Admission is complimentary to conference participants; the general public may attend for a nominal fee.  Individual and 3-day passes are available. A complete list of vendors and merchandise will be published at a later date.
           NOTE:  Merchants inquiries should be sent to Deborah McBeth, 28 Forest Street, Danvers, MA 01923 or at DLMAMSTS@aol.com or by calling 978-777-5257 to request an application.  Space is VERY limited and efforts are made not to duplicate the selection of merchandise.  Applications are reviewed by the jury and successful merchants will be notified by December 1, 2006. The selection process begins anew each year and the decision of the jury is final.

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HOTEL INFORMATION

Radisson Penn Harris Hotel and Convention Center
1150 Camp Hill Bypass
Camp Hill, PA  17011-3734
(717) 763-7117 phone
(717) 763-4518 (fax)

            The Radisson Penn Harris is 15 minutes from the Harrisburg International Airport and five minutes from downtown Harrisburg and the Amtrak train station.  It is within close proximity of I-81, I-83, I-76 (Pennsylvania Turnpike) and US Route 15.  Driving time is 1 hr 45 min for those flying into Baltimore-Washington International airport.  Historic sites in the area include Gettysburg (35 miles), the National Civil War Museum in Harrisburg (5 miles), and the U.S. Army War College in Carlisle (20 miles).  The Radisson provides a complimentary 24-hour van service to and from the Harrisburg airport and the train station.
           A block of rooms has been saved at $94.00 plus tax per night with 1- 4 persons per room.  To receive the discounted rate, please state that you are with the Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference.  The hotel will honor the reduced rate until January 29, 2007, at which time the price will return to the standard rate.
            If you would like to extend your stay to include days before or after the conference, the hotel will honor the conference rate for your entire stay.
           Hotel check-in begins at 3:00 PM. Early check-in may be permitted if rooms are available.
           When registering, please advise the hotel if you are disabled or have special needs. Handicapped and first floor rooms have been reserved for the conference but the number of available rooms is limited. We respectfully request that only participants who need special consideration request these rooms.

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- - SCHEDULE -

(Subject to Change – Times are Approximate)

Thursday, March 1

8:30

Registration opens - hotel lobby

9:30

Peterson's Lady's Nécessaire or Godey's Housekeeper's Châtelaine - Karin Bohleke

Nuts and Bolts: The Nitty-Gritty Details of Dress Construction - Carolann Schmitt

From Wet Plates to Megapixels: Using Digital Technology to Study 19th Century Photographs - Don Schmitt

10:00

Gettysburg National Military Park Workshop and Tour - Greg Goodell and Paul Shevchuk

Adams County Historical Society Workshop and Tour - Wayne Motts

2:00

From Wet Plates to Megapixels: Using Digital Technology to Study 19th Century Photographs - Don Schmitt

Gettysburg National Military Park Workshop and Tour - Greg Goodell and Paul Shevchuk

Adams County Historical Society Workshop and Tour - Wayne Motts

7:30

Welcome Reception and Movie Night—Governors Ballroom. Meet the speakers and your fellow participants and join us for a Civil War-themed motion picture (feature attraction to be announced). Pajamas, wrappers and dressing gowns are welcome but not required; beverages, snacks and popcorn will be provided.



Friday, March 2

9:00

Registration Opens - Convention Center Lobby

10:00

Workshops - Session I

Frock Coat Details Workshop Series #1: Lapel and Collar Shaping and Finishing - Jim Ruley

An Introduction to Netting - Deb Bender

Sparkle and Glitz Adorning Your Wrist: A Beaded Bracelet for Evening - Kelly Dorman

I Take Pen in Hand: Handwriting in Mid-Nineteenth Century America - Briant and Karin Bohleke

Caring for Personal Collections, Including Conservation on a Budget and Disaster Management - Paul Shevchuk

Capping It Off! Making a Lady's Fancy Cap - K. Krewer

11:00

Marketplace opens

1:00

Workshops - Session II

Frock Coat Details Series - Workshop #2 Series: Forepart Canvas, Padding and Interlining - Jim Ruley

An Introduction to Netting - Deb Bender

Sparkle and Glitz Adorning Your Wrist: A Beaded Bracelet for Evening - Kelly Dorman

I Take Pen in Hand: Handwriting in Mid-Nineteenth Century America - Briant and Karin Bohleke

Caring for Personal Collections, Including Conservation on a Budget and Disaster Management - Paul Shevchuk

Capping It Off! Making a Lady's Fancy Cap - K. Krewer

3:00

Workshops - Session III

Frock Coat Details Series - Workshop #3: Tail Pockets - Jim Ruley

An Introduction to Netting - Deb Bender

Sparkle and Glitz Adorning Your Wrist: A Beaded Bracelet for Evening - Kelly Dorman

I Take Pen in Hand: Handwriting in Mid-Nineteenth Century America - Briant and Karin Bohleke

Caring for Personal Collections, Including Conservation on a Budget and Disaster Management - Paul Shevchuk

It Feels Like...And Looks Like... Understanding Mid-Nineteenth Century Textiles - Carolann Schmitt

5:00

Displays open

Combined Session, Ballroom North - All Participants Will Attend

7:00

Marketplace closes, Conference Opens. Welcome.

7:05

Phillip Whiteman - "The Nightmare of the Roswell Mill Workers: Arrested for Treason"

8:20

Stand and stretch break

8:30

Program A - Ballroom North:

Karin Bohleke - "Keeping Up Appearances: Fashion and Clothing in Adams County, PA"

Program B- Governors Ballroom:

Mike Mescher - "Manly Entertainments: Recreational Activities for Gentlemen"

9:45

Sessions close. Judging of competition entries. Displays open until 10:30 PM.

Saturday Morning, March 3
Combined Session, Ballroom North - All Participants Will Attend

7:00

Breakfast - Ballroom South

7:30

Marketplace opens

8:00

Opening Remarks - Presentation of Speakers' Dresses and Vests - Combined Session, Ballroom North

Program A - Ballroom North:

8:30

Susan Lyons Hughes - "Pretty in Paisley: A Study of Shawls 'in the Indian Manner'"

9:45

Break

10:15

Janine Whiteman - "Sarah Josepha Hale: Beyond Godey's—The 19th Century Influence of 'The Lady Editor'"

11:30

Break - Displays and Marketplace are open

12:00

Lunch Served - Ballroom South

Program B - Governors Ballroom - Hotel Building:

8:40

Virginia Mescher - "What's On the Grocer's Shelves: Exploring the World of Mid-19th Century Food"

9:55

Break

10:25

K. Krewer - "Iowa in the Civil War: Ride With the Devil Meets Dances With Wolves"

11:40

Break - Displays and Marketplace are open

12:30

Lunch Served - Ballroom South

Saturday Afternoon, March 3
Combined Session, Ballroom North - All Participants Will Attend

1:30

Bruno J. Pino, Jr. with the live performance by the Indiana Brass Band - "The American Brass Band Movement 1835-1865"

2:45

Break

3:15

Ross Kelbaugh - "Photography in Civil War Baltimore: A Model for Researching Photographs"

4:30

Session closes

5:30

Displays and Marketplace close

6:30

Reception - Music by the Indiana Brass Band

7:30

Dinner - Social hour to follow

Sunday, March 4

7:30

Breakfast - Ballroom South

8:00

Marketplace opens

Combined Sessions - Ballroom North - All Participants Will Attend

8:30

Kay Cogswell - "What's Your Symbol? Six Feet Under and Not Forgotten or, Symbolism in Victorian Cemetery Art"

9:45

Break

10:15

Carolann Schmitt - "What, Where and When Do I Wear It? An Overview of Men's and Women's Accessories"

11:30

Closing remarks

12:00

Conference closes

12:30

Marketplace closes

Save the Date! The Fourteenth Annual Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference will be held March 6-9, 2008.

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- GENERAL INFORMATION -

How do I register for the Conference?
Printable registration forms (Word, Excel and PDF formats) are attached to this document below. Registration forms are also included in the Conference brochure.  Contact us if you would like a conference brochure and/or registration form mailed to you. Please complete a separate form for each participant. You may register:

Genteel Arts LLC
PO Box 3014
Gettysburg, PA  17325-0014

To download a document "right click" on you mouse over the underlined title below and select "Save target as..: to save to your hard disk OR "left click" click on the title and it will open with the chosen application. You can then save or print the document within that application (Word, Acrobat or Excel).  If you do not have an Adobe Acrobat reader already, you can download one here free.

1.) Microsoft Word format ---------> 

 

2007 Complete Information Document

2.) Adobe Acrobat (PDF) format ---> 

 

2007 Complete Information Document

(Note: Registration Forms are not available with the 2007 archived information)


Conference registration is limited and workshops fill up quickly.  Don’t be disappointed; early registration is strongly encouraged!

What is included in the registration fee?
The registration fee includes admission to the reception, conference sessions, displays, and Marketplace; conference notebook; door prizes; all meals and breaks on Saturday and Sunday; and preferred registration for pre-conference seminars, tours and workshops (additional fees for pre-conference sessions).

How do I make payment?
Payment may be made by check, money order, Visa or Mastercard.  We do not accept American Express, Discover, foreign currency or your first-born child.  Checks or money orders should be made payable to: Genteel Arts LLC .

Do you accept installment payments?
A two-payment plan is offered.  The first payment of $120.00 must be included with the registration form; the second payment of $120.00 (includes a $5.00 handling fee) must be received no later than January 8, 2007 or penalties will apply.  Full payment for pre-conference workshops and seminars must be included with the initial registration form.

What meals are included with the registration fee?
Saturday breakfast, lunch, dinner, morning and afternoon breaks; Sunday breakfast and morning break refreshments.

I’m a vegetarian.  Will there be something I can eat?
A vegetarian option is available for Saturday dinner; please indicate your preference on the registration form.  All other meals are buffets with a variety of selections that should accommodate most diets.  Please contact us if you need more specific information; the hotel will attempt to accommodate medically necessary diets.

Are there any programs for guests who are not participating in the conference?
You may bring a guest to Saturday dinner for an additional fee; please include his/her name on the registration form.  If your guest will be with you for the entire weekend, a complete meal package including admission to the vendor area and displays is available.  Guests may also purchase individual passes for the Marketplace. And there are many attractions—both historical and general interest—in the area.

May my son/daughter attend?
Well-behaved young ladies and gentlemen age 17 and under are also encouraged to attend with a responsible parent or adult.  A special registration rate is available.  Junior participants receive the same benefits as adult participants.

Do we dress in period attire?
Your best period attire is requested but not required for dinner Saturday evening.  Casual dress is appropriate for the rest of the time.

Please explain the seating at dinner.
In true Victorian fashion, we assign seating at dinner so that you may meet someone new who shares your interest in Civil War era clothing and culture.  However, we understand that some of you prefer sitting with someone you already know.  Dinner guests, of course, are seated with their partners.  Please indicate your seating preference on the registration form.  Tables are set for groups of eight.

I’d like to sign up for Program A, but I’d also like to attend one of the presentations in Program B.  Can I cross-over for that session?
Yes, if (and it’s a big “if”!) space permits.  Seating is limited for Program B, and preference is given to those who registered for that program.  Once all available space including standing room is filled the doors will be closed.

Can I sign up for specific programs, i.e. two sessions in Program A and two sessions in Program B?
No.  Limited space and logistics prevent us from accommodating such requests.

Does the notebook include the handouts for all of the presentations?
No, the notebook only includes the handouts for the joint sessions and the program for which you are registered.  However, you may order a set of handouts for the other program for an additional fee.  Please indicate your wishes on the Registration Form.

How far is it from the hotel to the Conference Center?
The hotel and Conference Center are in connecting buildings.  No long walks, no driving.

Does the hotel have a restaurant or coffee shop?
The hotel has a full-service restaurant, “The Bridges”, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  There are also several restaurants and fast-food options within walking distance or a short drive.

This is going to be our vacation.  Can we arrive at the hotel a few days early, or stay over a few days?
Yes!  And the hotel will honor the conference rate for your entire stay.  You must state you are with the Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference when registering to receive the conference rate for your entire stay.

What is the cancellation and refund policy?
A $15.00 handling fee will be charged on all cancellations.  Full refunds for cancellations made on or before January 22, 2007.  50% refunds for cancellations made on or before February 5, 2007.  No refunds after February 7, 2007; however, substitutions will be allowed, or the amount may be applied toward registration for the 2008 Conference.

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