From Waterproof Clothing to Jewelry for an Empress: The Birth of the Rubber Industry

Mike Woshner

           Could rubber manufacturers of the 1860s have imagined that the consumer products they were making would still be popular in the year 2008? Who could have known then that designs for rubber boots, raincoats, baby jumpers, waterbeds, medical syringes, and false bosoms used in the mid-1800s would never grow old; or that hard rubber combs, buttons, hairpins, jewelry, and collapsible cups would be mistaken for modern plastics a century and a half later? In his fascinating presentation and display, author Mike Woshner shares thirty years of research as he relates the dreams of Charles Goodyear and other early rubber pioneers and how they came to fruition during the 1850s and 1860s, with a special focus on waterproof clothing and jewelry. Mike also clears up some misconceptions about "gutta-percha" mirrors, daguerreotype cases, and other items that are actually made of thermoplastic compositions. A display of original artifacts will accompany the presentation. Conference participants are encouraged to bring items from their collection for identification and historical analysis.

Angels on the Battlefield: The Role of Catholic Sisters as Nurses during the Civil War

Katherine "Katie" Carroll

          Katie Carroll investigates an intriguing topic: the role of Catholic sisters who served as nurses during the Civil War. How did these deeply religious women become involved in nursing? Where did they serve as nurses in the North and the South? How did the largely non-Catholic soldiers, civilian and military physicians, and civilian nurses react to them? Many doctors preferred them to civilian women because they didn't talk back! Using primary source material from the archives of the religious groups, this presentation focuses on the Daughters of Charity—the ones with the big white hats—and the Sisters of Mercy, and includes a number of original photographs and other materials.

From Folk Remedies to Heroic Dosages: Senator Golladay Falls Ill

Nicky Hughes

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          In the latest chapter in the adventures of Senator and Mrs. Jacob Golladay, we explore an experience suffered by most of our Civil War era ancestors—sickness. In this presentation, the good senator succumbs to an initially unrecognized illness common to citizens of the 1850s and 1860s. He will then fall victim to medicine as practiced in that era. Persons in attendance will be exposed to the major theories and trends of mid-19th century medicine as a succession of physicians, practitioners, well-intentioned lay persons, family members, and quacks (yes, we'll work in a duck somehow) take turns trying to cure what ails the senator. Along the way, the presentation will touch upon many topics related to the material culture of the era—everything from night clothes to chamber pots, bed linens to tumblers, apothecary jars to liquor bottles, lithographed labels to ink erasers. Audience members will learn how to put together a medicine chest appropriate for the treatment of maladies according to the principles of pre-Pasteur medical theory using materials available in the 21st century at the drug store, the grocery store, and the hardware store—and, of course, the liquor store if Mrs. Golladay has anything to do with it. Will the senator recover? We're not telling—you've gotta be there to find out...

Differing Thoughts: Women's Views of the War in Coastal, Piedmont & Appalachian North Carolina

LeRae Umfleet

           The women of North Carolina saw the destruction of war, gave their men—more than any other southern state—to the cause, and persevered through some of our country's most trying times. Just as geography affected the war, geography also affected how women saw and dealt with the war.
           Women of the coastline had two distinct experiences, based solely on whether they lived closer to South Carolina or Virginia. Women of the northern and central coastal sections of North Carolina were under enemy occupation early in the war, witnessed some of the first foraging raids in the state and withstood the give and take necessary to survive in enemy territory. Further, many of their men signed up to fight for the Union army. The women of the southeastern coastline had it much easier. The powerful guns of Ft. Fisher kept the port of Wilmington open throughout the bulk of the war. Many have argued that its fall in January 1865 surely signaled the end of the war, and for the ladies it also signaled the end of acquiring goods and supplies through the blockade.
           Ladies of the Piedmont, or central plateau of the state, had a variety of experiences. For the most part, they were spared the constant fears, or worse, of raids experienced by their eastern counterparts. However, by the end of the war, General Sherman came through their yards and homes with thousands of men. One of the war's final battles at Bentonville, the largest battle in the state, demonstrated the destruction wrought by the conflict for the women left to care for destroyed crops and wounded soldiers.
           For the mountainous regions of the state, partisan warfare, pitting neighbor against neighbor, was commonplace. Women were brought into the conflict as pawns, actors, and innocent victims. Some women sought to participate in the conflict, disguising themselves as soldiers, whereas others endured torture, deprivation, and death as a result of the actions of their men.
           The multitude of experiences of North Carolina's women during the war will be provided accompanied by images of the women, their clothing, their homes, and the sights of wartime North Carolina.

A Connecticut Trilogy, a New York Duet: An Examination of Related Original Garments

K. Krewer

           Original garments have a story to tell about the people who wore them. Can we learn even more when we have multiple garments that belonged to one person? In our own conference version of "History Detectives," we will examine in depth some garments with provenance that ties them to a single owner. In particular, three dresses from the mid-19th century that belonged to the same Connecticut woman and two dresses belonging to a woman in New York will be compared, using a "sleuthing at the seams" analysis. What insights can we gain about their owners and the culture in which they lived? Extensive and detailed illustrations will allow conference participants to play the role of detective and develop their conclusions regarding what clothes reveal.

My Sentiments Expressed: The Symbolism & Personal Significance of Designs in Victorian Jewelry

Marge Harding

           There is much more to Victorian jewelry than adornments of precious, semi-precious and not-so-precious metals, gems and minerals. While some pieces were reserved for the very wealthy, most of the jewelry was accessible and affordable and was worn daily by the middle classes. However, there is much more to the designs used in this jewelry than initially meets the eye. Why would serpents, oak and ivy be so important? Why would an open or closed book or hands have such deep personal meaning? Jewelry expresses our vast range of emotions and sentiment, whether deepest love, respect, friendship, appreciation, fears or grief. Using extensive images of original mid-nineteenth century jewelry, the speaker will reveal the significance of the shapes and materials—visible and implied—commonly featured in designs for brooches, earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings. As we discuss the symbolism of common motifs, we will try to look into the souls of mid-19th century women, better understand the comfort they took in wearing jewelry, and understand the feelings, sentiments and superstitions that directed their lives.

'Botanizing Women': The Growth of a Cultural Phenomenon

Kelly Dorman

           In the mid-19th century, the study of botany was considered peculiarly suited to females, as the objects of its investigation are beautiful and delicate. However, botany was far more than a schoolgirl subject; its influences stretched from the parlor to the public sphere and can still be felt today. The speaker will discuss those influences as seen in textiles both for garments and household usage, in decorative details for the home, in the craft projects suggested in the ladies' magazines, in jokes printed in newspapers as fillers, and as sentimental remembrances. This presentation will show how the seeds of the current conservation movement are firmly rooted in the botany craze of the antebellum period.  Botany has a branch suitable for all, from the parlor dilettante to needful wage earner or intrepid explorer; we will explore what it takes to be a "botanizing woman."

Taking the Cars: An Overview of US Railroads Prior to the Civil War

Ron Beavers

           This presentation begins in the 1820s with the birth of the railroad industry in America. Drawings and travel memoirs will illustrate how naïve this country was regarding the new transportation system. By the 1840s and 1850s, 'taking the cars' was an increasingly common form of transportation. We will discuss the 'mechanics' of traveling by rail: Where did you buy tickets? What did they cost? Where did you stay if your journey was longer than one day's travel? Did you sleep on the train? Stop at a hotel and then re-board? What facilities, if any, were provided on the trains? Food? Beverages? Restrooms? Were women safe traveling alone? Could you get there from here? We will conclude with a brief discussion of how railroads were used for non-military shipping (logistics).

Over and Under: A Look beyond the Basics of Men's Clothing

Kara Bartels

           Most people are familiar with male attire that consists of coat, shirt, vest, and trousers. But they are perhaps less familiar with what was worn underneath these garments, or what outerwear options were available for different occasions. What was the purpose of these items? Where they fashionable, functional or both? What styles were available and popular? What were these garments made of?
           This presentation will take a look at the clothing options that men in the mid-nineteenth century had with regard to weather, activities, and personal preference. Photographs, fashion magazines, clothing catalogues, and original garments provide an expanded view of the variety of clothing that would have been familiar to mid-nineteenth century gentlemen.

Barrels, Buckets and Tubs, Oh, My! Cooper's Work and Its Influence on our Daily Lives

Robin Dorman

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           Did you ever really look at that bucket or barrel? Who made it? How was it constructed? How did the cooper learn his craft? What are the characteristics of mid-nineteenth century cooperage? This presentation will examine the art of a cooper and his products, including casks, barrels, buckets, tubs, butter churns, hogsheads, firkins, tierces, rundlets, puncheons, pipes, tuns, butts, pins, and breakers. The talk will cover the cooper’s training and the way he worked. The audience will see examples of the cooper’s labor and the tools he used and experience a brief demonstration on bucket making. There will also be a discussion of the different types of coopering—and how each is different and yet still similar.

The Last Redoubt of Color and Fashion: An Analysis of Men's Vests 1850-1865

Carolann Schmitt

           In earlier eras, sleeveless garments that covered the torso were referred to as waistcoats. By the mid-19th century, the common name for these garments had changed to vests. In an increasingly staid and drab wardrobe, they were becoming the last remaining garment in a gentleman's wardrobe with color, pattern and fashion. In order to understand the transition of styles within this period, we will review the stylistic differences between vests dating from the 1840s to the 1870s. We will analyze various pattern drafts, examine variations in collars, pockets, welts, belts and facings, probe linings, interlinings and padding, and review various construction sequences. While this will not be a class with stitch-by-stitch details on how to make a vest, valuable information will be provided for those interested in making their own vests or shopping wisely for ready-made garments. Profusely illustrated, the presentation will be accompanied by an extensive display of original vests.

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SEMINARS, TOURS AND HANDS-ON WORKSHOPS

            Pre-conference seminars, tours and hands-on workshops will be held Thursday and Friday, March 6-7, 2008.  Sessions vary in length, depending on the topic and location. In some instances, a modest fee payable to the instructor will be charged for supplies and materials for the hands-on workshops.  A complete schedule and full details including a list of any items to be brought by participants are listed below.
            Priority registration is given to conference participants. Registration will be accepted from the general public after January 31, 2008, space permitting.
            In order to accommodate as many participants as possible, especially those arriving later in the day, we ask that you register for the earliest session your schedule permits. Please indicate on the registration form your first, second and third choices for each workshop; please check your registration form for accuracy before submitting.
            The Conference reserves the right to cancel a session if there is insufficient registration. Register early, space is limited!

Workshop/Tour of the Shippensburg University Fashion Archives and Museum

Karin Bohleke

            When searching for sources of information on historic costume, we usually think of college and universities in conjunction with their libraries. Yet several of these institutions also maintain extensive costume collections, some with associated museums, and regularly mount rotating exhibits of items in their collections. In this workshop, Dr. Karin Bohleke, Director of the Shippensburg University Fashion Archives and Museum, will discuss the many sources of information that are available to the general public via educational costume collections, where to find them, how to gain access to the collections, the pitfalls one may encounter, and appropriate behavior while conducting on-site research. The workshop will include a guided tour of the current exhibit on mid-nineteenth century clothing: Garibaldis, Engageantes and Cages: American Fashions of the Civil War Era. Participants may also utilize the extensive costume reference library for their research.  Thursday, 9:30-12:30 or 1:30-4:30. Fee: $30.00. Limit: 20 students. A portion of the proceeds from these sessions will benefit the Shippensburg University Fashion Archives and Museum.

Workshop Tour of the US Army Heritage and Education Center

AHEC Staff

            The Army Heritage and Education Center (AHEC) was established in June 1999. The museum was joined to the pre-existing U.S. Army Military History Institute, with the overall mission of highlighting the history and heritage of the Army. In 2001, Ridgway Hall became the first building constructed on the newly established campus. Just outside the gates of Carlisle Barracks, Ridgway Hall vastly improved and expanded the MHI, which, prior to this move, was housed on post in Upton Hall—a building revered for its historical prominence but an environmental detriment to the very archival collection that the Institute strives to protect. The new Ridgway Hall boasts the highest standards for storage of archival holdings and includes strict environmental controls and security features. It also provides greater service to patrons with a spacious, accessible reading room and six large areas for housing the collection.
            Soon after Ridgway Hall was established, the Interim Storage Facility was constructed. Although it looks from the outside to be a massive shed, it is more than just a utility area. This building is a state-of-the-art storage facility which houses a significant portion of the Army Heritage Museum's artifacts. Curators and exhibits staff work tirelessly to ensure proper management of the Museum's collection.
           Originally intended to be the final phase of the AHEC project, the Army Heritage Trail is an additional feature that is currently the AHEC's most recognized and visible component. Presented as an interactive outdoor museum, the Army Heritage Trail graphically depicts the major campaigns in which the U.S. Army has participated since its inception.
            The AHEC has plans for three additional buildings on campus to enhance the visitor experience and further the AHEC's ability to collect and preserve soldiers' stories. With an opening planned for 2008, the Visitor and Education Center will serve as the front door for the AHEC complex to greet and orient patrons, provide guided tours and direct visitors to the appropriate destination on the campus. In 2009, the Conservation Center is expected to open as a 35,000 square foot, state-of-the-art support facility for the AHEC collection. This multi-functional structure is slated to house conservation and analytical laboratories as well as provide artifact storage for the Army Heritage Museum. And in 2011, an opening is planned for the Army Heritage Museum, a 50,000 square foot facility designed to highlight an extensive collection of military artifacts related to the service of individual soldiers throughout the history of the Army.
           Participants in this workshop will enjoy a special guided tour of the facility, have the opportunity to view selected artifacts, and learn how to access and use the resources available at the Center. Thursday, 9:30-12:30 or 1:30-4:30. Fee: $30.00. Please enter key word AHEC on the registration form. A portion of the proceeds from these sessions will benefit the US Army Heritage and Education Center.

Slashing, Spreading, and Swinging Darts:
Altering a Basic Bodice Pattern for Fit and Style

Carolann Schmitt

           You've finally found a carte de visite or fashion illustration of the perfect dress, but it doesn't look like any of the commercial patterns that are available. Now what do you do? In these workshops, participants will learn how to take a basic darted bodice pattern and alter it to create additional styles.
           Session #1: Altering for Fit. The workshop begins with an illustrated review of the key elements of a properly drafted and fitted bodice. Participants will then learn how to take accurate measurements and how to select the correct size pattern. Instructions for common alterations, including necklines, shoulders, armscyes, waistlines, wide/narrow backs, full bust, and lopsided torsos will be included and discussed. While we do not have time for individual custom fittings, participants will learn how to recognize their individual fitting problems and how to compensate for them. Thursday, 9:30-12:30. Fee: $30.00 plus materials. Limit: 20 students. Please enter key word Patterns-1 on the registration form.
           Session #2: Altering for Style. Using scale paper pattern pieces, students will learn how to slash, spread, add to and/or subtract from the basic pattern pieces to create a number of alternate styles, including gathered, pleated, tucked bodices, sheer bodices with half-linings, asymmetrical or back closures, wide, square or V-necklines, pointed waistlines—single, double, front or back, yokes of varying shapes, basques and peplums. You are encouraged to bring illustrations and images of styles for future projects. Students will leave the workshop with a portfolio of sample patterns that can be used as a reference for future projects. Thursday, 1:30-4:30 Fee: $30.00 plus materials. Limit: 20 students. Please enter key word Patterns-2 on the registration form.
           General Information: No sewing skills are required. A materials fee of $10.00 per session includes extensively illustrated handouts and instructions, scale patterns, and a supply of additional pattern paper to create new designs. Students will need to bring straight pins, paper scissors, Scotch™ tape, pencil, rulers and tape measure. Additional information will be sent by the instructor. Fee: $30 plus materials. Maximum 25 students.

All Wrapped up in (Old) Glory: Making a Patriotic Apron

Karin Bohleke

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           Instead of wearing their hearts on their sleeves, women on both sides of the Civil War proudly wore their politics around their waists. Students will make a reproduction patriotic apron based upon surviving examples and illustrations using appropriate sewing techniques. They will have the option of choosing pinner or traditional styles. Documentation, including examples in wool, cotton and silk from both the South and the North will be provided. The instructor will contact students by e-mail regarding materials and supplies; prices will vary according to the student's fabric choices. Maximum 15 students.
           Session #1: This session will include historical information, cutting, and basic assembly of the apron. All of the information needed to complete the apron will be included in this session. Friday, 9AM-12PM. Fee: $30.00. Please enter key word Aprons-1 on the registration form.
           Session #2: Students may elect to return for an optional afternoon session that will include suggestions and instructions for embroidering and embellishing their apron. Friday, 1PM-4PM. Fee: $30.00. Please enter key word Aprons-2 on the registration form.

Pattern Drafting with DeVere's Centre Point System:
Measurement, Graduated Inches, and Drafting the Basic Coat, Vest and Trousers

Jim Ruley

           In this three-workshop series, Jim Ruley will share his knowledge and experience of Louis DeVere's circa 1866 pattern drafting techniques. Experience shows these produce well-fitted garments (by period standards) when correctly applied. Clothing and patterns made using the system will be displayed.
           Session #1: Measurement, Graduated Inches and the Basic Coat Draft covers the basic knowledge necessary to apply DeVere's system, including measurements needed and size variation using graduated measures. Students will apply these concepts by drafting a "close-fitting wrapper" (analogous to a modern 'sloper') pattern in a reduced size. They may use standard measures or experiment with their own measurements taken in class. Friday, 10-11:45AM. Fee: $30.00 plus textbook (see below). Please enter key word Drafting-1 on the registration form.
            Session #2: Completing the Coat Draft covers making a workable frock coat production pattern from the "close-fitting wrapper." We will discuss seam placement and allowances, and auxiliary pieces including skirts, lapels, collars, and sleeves. Students may use their personal drafts from Session 1 or a standard draft for the "wrapper." Friday, 1-1:45PM. Fee: $30.00 plus textbook (see below). Please enter key word Drafting-2 on the registration form.
            Session #3: Vest and Trouser Drafts covers the basic drafts for vests and trousers. Attendance at Session 1 is suggested so measurements and graduated measures will be familiar. Students will apply concepts by drafting basic patterns in reduced scale, using standard measures or their own taken in class. Fee: $30.00 plus textbook (see below). Friday, 3-4:45PM. Please enter key word Drafting-3 on the registration form.
            Textbook: All sessions will use material taken from The Handbook of Practical Cutting on the Centre Point System, Third Edition, by Louis DeVere, available in reprint from R. L. Shep Publications, Mendocino, CA. To avoid any violation of copyright, all students must purchase a copy of the textbook or bring their personal copy with them. Copies will be available for purchase at the Conference at a cost of $17.95 plus tax.

A Taste of Lace: An Introduction to Bobbin Lace, Shuttle- and Needle-Tatting

Deb Bender

           Bobbin lace is a logical and systematic technique of weaving threads using a combination of three stitches to create lace. The finished results are both exquisite and original and its manufacture is creative and fascinating. The instructor will also display a variety of laces from her personal collection and share highlights of lace history during the class.
           Session #1: Introduction to Bobbin Lace covers basic skills and techniques. Students will create a sampler of the three basic stitches. Thursday, 9:30AM-12:30PM. Fee: $30.00 plus materials. Please enter key word Bobbin-1 on the registration form.
           Session #2: Advancing and Improving your Skills. This session offers persons who have taken the first session or those with a basic knowledge of the technique to a) refresh or reinforce their skills; b) get help with a current project; c) start a new project. The instructor will contact those students choosing to go beyond the basic instruction to determine their skill level and to know what pattern they are/will be working on. Thursday 1:30-4:30PM. Fee: $30.00 plus materials. Please enter key word Bobbin-2 on the registration form.
           Equipment and Materials: All equipment will be provided for class use only. There will be a materials fee of $5.00 per session. Kits with additional supplies and materials will be available for sale. All equipment will be provided for class use only; there will be a materials fee of $5.00. Kits with additional supplies and materials will be available for sale. Maximum 12 students.
           Tatting, made by shuttle or needle, is a lacemaking technique involving the making of lark's head knots, or the double stitch, over a foundation thread. The double stitches are arranged in a series of rings and/or chains to complete the design. Prior to the 1860's, however, the design was created using rings only. Tatting is popular all over the world, and there are many names for the technique. The English word, tatting, is derived from the Icelandic word taeta, meaning tease, knot or pick up. Italians call it occhi, meaning little eye. French call it frivolité, which some say describes the character of the work. The instructor will also display a variety of laces from her personal collection and share highlights of lace history during the class.
          Beginning students will learn the double stitch, picots, and joins. Intermediate students are encouraged to contact the instructor to discuss possible options. Materials fee: $10, including shuttle or needle, instruction booklet & thread. Maximum 12 students.
          Shuttle Tatting: Friday, 9AM-12PM. Fee: $30.00 plus materials. Please enter key word Shuttle on the registration form.
          Needle Tatting: Friday, 1PM-4PM. $30.00 plus materials. Please enter key word Needle on the registration form.

Go to the Source: Access Period Publications from the PNJW Collections

Phillip & Janine Whiteman

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            Did you ever wish you had access to original copies of every issue of Godey's Lady's Book, Peterson's Magazine, or other period publications from 1850-1865? Well now you can. Whether you are researching a specific topic or just want to spend time immersed in history, participants in this workshop will have individual hands-on access to these wonderful resources. You are invited to bring your own camera to photograph pages, or you may use the class camera and scanner to copy illustrations and articles for your reference. The images will be placed on a CD-ROM for the participant to take home. Publications include: Godey's Lady's Book and Peterson's Magazine 1850-1865, assorted issues of Godey's Lady's Book from the 1830's and 1840's, Harper's Monthly 1860-1865, assorted issues of Graham's Magazine from the 1840's and 1850's, men's fashion and etiquette books, women's etiquette books, receipt and cook books, assorted newspapers from 1860-1865 (Northern and Southern), a Webster's 1863 Dictionary and more. Over 100 volumes will be on hand. Copies of the Table of Contents of the Godey's, Peterson's, Graham's and Harper's Magazines will be provided as handouts.
           Participants should bring: pencil and paper for note taking (no ink pens allowed) and a camera (optional). Participants may wish to prepare in advance by accessing Vicki Betts' Godey's Lady's Book 1855-1865 Index at http://www.uttyler.edu/vbetts/godey_intro.htm before the class. Friday, 10-11:45AM, 1-2:45PM and 3-4:45PM. Workshop fee: $30.00 Please enter key word PNJW on the registration form. Maximum 15 students.

Brace Yourself! Constructing Period Suspenders

Brian "Speedy" Merrick

           Ladies' magazines are full of directions on how to crochet suspenders and patterns for embellishing fabric or webbing with needlework. The final instruction given is often a not very helpful variation of "make up in the usual style." This workshop will give students a variety of suspender tab styles from which to choose and instruct them on how to attach the leather tabs to the finished handiwork.
           Students will need to bring their own finished embellished webbing (2 yards minimum) or purchase ready-made webbing at the class. A kit including a set of buckles, leather pieces, thread, needle, and basic leather tools will be provided. Kit fee TBA. Thursday, 9:30AM-12:30PM or Friday 9AM-12PM. Workshop fee: $30.00. Please enter key word Suspenders on the registration form. Maximum 10 students.

CopyRights, 'CopyWrongs'

Susan Anthony

            Perhaps no other topic generates as much discussion and misinformation than the issues of intellectual property and copyrights. While even attorneys will agree to disagree, there are laws and guidelines governing their use. This presentation will discuss several issues of particular interest to historians, including photocopying, guidelines for quoting from works by others, footnotes and acknowledgements in written articles, posting images and information on the Internet, "fair use," obtaining permissions and how to copyright and trademark your work. This workshop will provide important information for those wishing to know more about using others' copyrighted works and protecting their own works. Friday, 1-2:45PM and 3-4:45PM. Workshop fee: $30.00. Please enter key word Copyrights on the registration form. Maximum 18 students.

No More Dark Slides and Dim Images: PowerPoint Presentations for Historians, a Tutorial

Don Schmitt

           Audio/visual technology has changed dramatically from the days of film strips, overhead and slide projectors. When used properly and to their full advantage, software programs like PowerPoint make it easy to create professional presentations. When used incorrectly, they can do more harm than good, and can bore one's audience to death or put it to sleep! Digital projectors and computers have replaced legacy film devices today to display bright clear images in rooms of any size and fully integrate photos, graphics, sound with video to tell your story.
           Participants in this workshop will be exposed to some of the special features found in PowerPoint and similar presentation software, including how to add photo images, graphics, fades, blends, sounds and motion video to their presentations. We'll look at an example of one of the worst (and funniest!) PowerPoint presentations and learn how to avoid making similar errors. A brief guide to purchasing presentation hardware and software and a list of sources will be included. Participants must bring their own laptop computers with PowerPoint already installed on their systems. Each student should bring about a half dozen digital photos to incorporate into a small project. Thursday, 1:30-4:30PM. Workshop fee: $30.00 Please enter key word PowerPoint on the registration form. Maximum 15 students.

Gathers, Pleats, Folds and Curves: Ruching

Marge Harding

           In the mid-nineteenth century, ruching was a very popular type of trimming made from gathered, pleated or tucked ribbon or strips of fabric. In these workshops, you will learn how to make different types of ruching, from simple to complicated, which may be used to embellish dresses, millinery and outerwear.
           Introduction to Ruching teaches the basic techniques of this type of embellishment. Students will learn how to make several basic pleated and gathered ruchings. Information on selecting appropriate ribbons and how to make ruching from fabric will be included. A kit with materials will be provided; fee TBA. Students should bring straight pins, scissors, hand-sewing needles, thread, thimble (if you use one), beeswax and pen/pencil to take notes. Friday, 10AM, 1PM and 3PM. Workshop fee: $30. Please enter key word Ruching-1 on the registration form. Limit: 15 students.
           In the session on Quilling and Other Advanced Techniques, students will learn how to make several of the more complicated types of ruching. A basic understanding of ruching (from prior workshops or experience) is required. In order to focus and learn as many advanced techniques as possible, basic instruction will not be included. A kit with materials will be provided; fee TBA. Thursday, 9:30AM-12:30PM or 1:30-4:30PM. Workshop fee: $30.00 Please enter key word Ruching-2 on the registration form. Maximum 15 students.

A Lady's Toilette: A Guide to Period Cosmetics

Virginia Mescher

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           Cosmetics are almost indispensable to many modern women but this was not necessarily the case in the 1860s. The practice of using cosmetics changed, just as fashions did. In the mid-19th century, cosmetics were highly controversial, with proponents both for and against their use. Numerous receipts for toilet articles and cosmetics appeared in periodicals, cookbooks, and household books, but many dangerous, and even deadly, ingredients were included in these receipts. For this reason it is not a good idea to make cosmetics from period receipts unless one is familiar with the ingredients.
           This is a demonstration-style workshop with some participation from the attendees. We will discuss the philosophy of the use of cosmetic products in the Western world and the types of products used to make period preparations. There will be a display of cosmetic ingredients and modern versions of period cosmetics and containers. The workshop fee will include samples of cosmetics made in the workshop and extensive handouts of both period and modern cosmetic recipes. Friday, 10-11:45AM or 1-2:45PM. Fee: $30.00. Maximum 20 students.

Look for the Silver Lining: What Can Original Garments Tell Us?

K. Krewer

           While scientists look for the proverbial silver bullet, clothing historians look for the "silver lining"—what original garments can tell us about the people who wore them and their material culture. Participants in this workshop will examine a number of original women's garments from the 1840s-1860s in a manner sometimes referred to as "sleuthing at the seams"—looking at materials, trims, construction techniques, repairs, and re-incarnations. Pore over patches, delve into darts, hobnob over hems—and afterwards, share notes to gain some insights about original clothing and their original owners!
           Supplies needed: Inquiring minds, sharp eyes, and clean hands. Survey forms will be provided. Students may wish to bring additional paper and pencils for notes or drawings; no ink pens allowed. Rulers and/or tape measures may be useful to the quantitatively inclined. Cameras permitted but optional. Friday, 10-11:45AM, 1-2:45PM, 3-4:45PM. Fee: $30.00. Please enter key word Originals on the registration form. Maximum 15 students.

Hardware and Software:
The System of Women's Underclothing, a Structural Support for Fashion

Carolann Schmitt

           "Without foundation there can be no fashion." Although this quote by Christian Dior dates from the 1940s, it is applicable to the mid-nineteenth century. It is impossible to achieve a period silhouette without the appropriate undergarments. Each article of clothing, whether hardware (corset and crinoline) or software (chemise, drawers and petticoats) combines to create a system of structure and support and helps create the prevailing fashion.
           We will trace the evolution in style of each garment, discuss their common characteristics—fabrics, styles, construction and trimmings, and review when, where, why and how each garment was worn. We will also review the transition from custom-made to ready-to-wear and how advances in technology influenced styles and construction. 'Hot button' topics will be addressed, including tight-lacing, crinoline size and whether to tuck or not to tuck.
            A display of original undergarments will accompany the profusely-illustrated presentation. Live models of varying sizes and shapes will aid in illustrating how the 'system' works. A workbook will include historical information, time lines, line drawings, illustrations, comparison of key details, construction tips and techniques, sources for patterns, supplies and materials, glossary and fabric swatches. Participants are encouraged to bring original undergarments from their collection for display and discussion. Bring a pencil for taking notes—no ink pens allowed—and a roll of double-faced Scotch™ tape to attach swatches.
Friday, 3-4:45PM. Workbook with swatches - $10. Workshop fee: $30. Unlimited enrollment.

2008 Pre-Conference Workshops/Tours/Seminars
 

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           We have borrowed the concept for this project from the Costume Society of America, which has conducted Angels Projects in conjunction with its annual symposia for several years.
           On Wednesday, March 5, a limited number of Conference participants will have the opportunity to serve as behind-the-scenes volunteers at selected local museums. Volunteers will assist museum staff with a number of tasks, including but not limited to: preparing and packing original garments in archival boxes, cutting and assembling archival materials to mount three dimensional objects, storing and filing periodicals and photographs, assisting with data entry, moving boxes to and within storage areas, and other tasks as assigned by the institution and staff.
           Participation is limited. Applicants will be accepted on a first-come, first-served basis; a waiting list will be maintained in the event additional space becomes available. There is no fee for participants; however volunteers must supply their own transportation to and from the museum locations.